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arby

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Posts posted by arby

  1. 34 minutes ago, formula 1 said:

    just give you my input as im reading this thread , if you have ASmedia USB3.0 Drivers installed remove them and let windows just configure them , in the past they have been known to cause me issues when usb's aren't recognised either in windows or in programs

    After my reformat cause of 1903 the only drivers I've manually installed so far are my chipset, raid controller, and video drivers. 

  2. 40 minutes ago, Beissen said:

    Motherboard dont matter its the USB ports. Now all ports worked with the update and I'm also on international as well and a PC.  Try removing all of escribe then re download the international version (Its better anyway) and see if it fixes the problem. 

    Actually it does, my motherboard only has 3.0 USB on the rear I/O. I've already tried the IV versions as well with no luck. 

  3. 43 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

    On my laptop the USB ports are all USB 3.0 except one, it is 2.0. Do you by chance have one that is 2.0? I'm thinking that your problem is hardware more than software, don't know though.

    I'm not sure if this was mentioned or not, using another computer with same data cable will the mod of perhaps a phone connect?

    I would be first checking the cable even if it had worked before.

    My motherboard is only 3.0 and it did work on this build when I put it together in 2016 on my older DNA mod. 

  4. On 8/5/2019 at 10:59 PM, dwcraig1 said:

    Perhaps something here might be of some help:

    https://appuals.com/fix-usb-device-not-recognized-on-windows-10/

    Also maybe have a look at your UEFI/Bios settings pertaining to USB ports.

    Sorry for the late reply but none of these things worked. I even had to reformat earlier today cause the newest cumulative update corrupted my Windows. 

     

    Devices are clearly charging from the lighting bolt on their respected screens. I grabbed an older DNA167 mod I had and it won't work on that either so it isn't just the 75C that is the issue. 

  5. 1 hour ago, Wayneo said:

    @arby What is the SP number you have installed? Also are you plugging in directly to your PC (no hub). Also, have you tried different cables?

    I've tried the ones suggested here and several other ones all the way up to the newest version.  No hub and different cables. Like I said I tried everything this thread suggested. My VM is almost done installing Win7, gonna try this next. 

     

     

    My VM of Win7 didn't work, the mods know they are charging and when a cable has been plugged into them, and I have been able to go into Escribe with them before on W10 so I don't know what is going on. 

  6. I'm necroing this thread, I know its old but I am having issues with my 75C connecting. I've tried everything in this thread. Using the OG escribe software for when the 75C or 250C chip came out all the way to the newest SP. No luck, I am about to make a W7 virtual drive and try it in there if I have to. But I wanted to know if there has been any development that hasn't been posted or discovered that has solved this before I go digging for my Tiny7 install. 

  7. joel said:

    Did some quick research and it seems that the DNA200 may have some issues in TC mode with builds under .05 ohms in TC mode especially(perhaps only) in NI200. Hence, the vape is waaaaayyyy smoother and on par when you lock ohms. My SS316L is 0.53 ohms and I get excellent vape locked or not. On the .23 ohms NI200 hrakles, it needs to be locked around .28 for a good vape - so I ageee with arby.

    I vape using LightningVapes 24ga 316L wire and with all my builds I have to lock a higher ohm to get a good vape than the default cold ohm reading on my builds. Same goes for SweetSpot wire.
  8. aabbas said:

    Finally got what was wrong, it seems that locking the ohm is essential for TC. Thanks to Joel Al last enjoying my DNA200

    Glad to see another vapor enjoying their temp control. I know that feeling of success, it's great.
  9. monitor.png dual 10 wrap contact 24 gauge 316L which cold reads at .2117 but I locked at .235; power 30W, temp 415F, preheat 1W @ 1 PHpunch and time of 1s. Works great in my Griffin 25. Flavor is nice, it's warm, and I'm using DJaquith V7 for SS 316L. First puff takes a second to warm up but it holds a nice steady stream of vapor even up to the temp cut off and it starts to get weakened a bit but not as bad as it did before I tweaked it. If I set the temp to 420 or even 425 it gets warmer but I feel like the cotton gets kinda dry at those temps. Might be my wicking and could use less cotton bacon but for now it's great.

    Thanks DJ for all the CVS files!

    Running on a Vaporflask 133 by Vapor Shark. 



    EDIT: After rewicking it with less cotton I think the better juice flow keeps my temps from climbing even more and it doesn't even hit 400 now. This is AWESOME!

    monitor.png 
  10. I built some dual 10 wrap contact 24 gauge 316L which cold reads at .2117 and when locked at that value it really sucks but if I force it to lock at .23 or .24 I get way more vape and it doesn't hit temp cut off quickly. Is this safe to do? I can't find a successful vape and I've tried the UD 3.25 and 3.5 values posted here in this thread without locking it at a higher ohm. 

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