bingbling

Yeah I think that should be ok. Just keep the atty under observation during the test and make sure its not getting overly hot.

I am not very eletricity-savvy but to me it sounds like cutting it close. I think you need either resistors that arer made to withstand high effect, or some kind of cooling to take the heat of the resistor. I did it the easy way, just make a giant spaced coil with long leads of 24awg kanthal. I did go overboard on the laps tho haha. So no need to make it as high as I did (3,4 ohm). During the test at 40W the wires barely got warm.

Yep about that, 950 to 1000mAh-ish. I've seen people on e-ciggaretteforum claiming to have ran the analyzer and getting the full 1300mAh, but I am wondering if they're just talking out their asses lol

Yeah its a bit high, I was just following the prevoius advice and it ended up at 3,4 ohm. I wanted something I knew for sure could handle the heat. The test is nearly finished now anyways so it doesnt matter. I dont think it matters if it says to high ohm, the battery still depletes which is the point. Edit. The test ended with 10.93Wh. Quite a bit off from the advertised 14,43Wh on the HCigar. A bit of a letdown really. On the positive side, the battery meter should be spot on now.

So I am doing the battery analyzer at the moment. I made a 3,4 ohm coil from 24awg around a mechmod. It keeps flashing Ohms too high during the test. Is that ok or should I make a lower ohm free air coil?

According to this it's around 0.006ohm.

Thank you VapingBad, I will do so

Take something the size of an old fashioned broom handle. Make five well spaced wraps with kanthal and give yourself some long leads to get it away from the mod. Remove from the broom handle or whatever you used. You are basically making a giant free air coil. That should work just fine and you can adjust the wattage of the test down if you are worried.[/QUOTE] Alright, thanks for the tip Might just make dual ones, that should certainly be able to handle the heat and offload it from the atty.

I see, thanks for a quick reply! I am going to vape the battery empty and plug it in and check the levels with the monitor to find out the exact "empty" values.

Planning to run the battery analyzer, and I know there are lots of sweet setups suggested here with resistors and stuff. I don't have access to stuff like that, so I was thinking of doing it with loops of wire sitting in free air. Would a build like this running the 2 wires in a loop be enough to take the heat off? Or do I need something even more overkill?

So, I know Cell Soft cutoff makes the battery cells never drop below set value. But does this mean the battery should hit this value before signaling weak battery? I got the weak battery signal earlier today at work and plugged it in to my computer and fired up escribe, and I am not 100% certain of the exact values, but when it had charged for just a few minutes the cells showed aproximately 3,4-3,5V at rest and dipping just a tad under load. My Cell soft cutoff is set to default 3.09V. Is something off here or is it normal? The setup at that moment was dual Titanium coils 0.19Ohm @ 40W. The reason I am asking is because I feel the battery life seems low (HCigar 1300mAh), my batterymeter is currently set to 1100mAh and its still far from accurate, showing weak battery when I have quite a bit (10-20%) left according to the meter. My theory was if my device somehow cuts off way above 3.09V, at like 3.4V I havent ran the battery analyzer yet but I will any day now, would the outcome of that also affect/calibrate the Cell soft cutoff?

Oh, I had no idea. Didn't realise a usb cable could be other than "fully" connected internally. I guess you (I) do learn something new each day

Yeah it seems the board is really sensitive about cables. I have no issues charging with what ever cable but only certain cable works to connect it to escribe. I was a bit afraid I had somehow bricked the board, but luckily I hadn't

Edit. Nevermind, a third USB cable did the trick.

If you just use a big circular loop of thick wire in free air, it doesn't get that hot. Making a coil reduces cooling efficiency and allows heat transfer from loop to loop. If you have 24, try twisting 3 or 4 strands (what will fit in your atty) into one large circular loop.[/QUOTE] Thank you for the tip, I might just do that and see what the outcome will be I see, so the battery capacity is closer to 1000mAh than 1300mAh. There's a discussion going on e-cigaretteforum about this. Some people claim they ran the battery analyzer and have a setting of 14.43 (1300mAh), and their battery meter is 100% accurate according to them. About using your CSV, would that really be totally accurate?

Right, so I don't have access to those kinda testbeds john is talking about. The thread you linked suggests air cooled coils, so quad coils with 24gauge should be able to handle the heat from 50watts. Something like this? They should barely get warm, if at all. What do you think about that?

Hi, what would be the proper use of battery analyzer? Can I attach just any RDA with a coil and run it or should I have some specific setup? I am a bit hesitant running it because I have heard some people having problems with heat and/or fried boards due to heat etc. Also does it have a great effect on battery life/meter completing the analysis compared to just entering the numbers into the calc? I'm having some difficulties matching my HCigar VT200 battery specifications with real life figures. Entering specified 1300mAh into the calc (14.43) is way off for me, I am getting weak battery at ~25% battery left. So I am down to setting 1100mAh, which so far gives a more accurate battery meter. Any advice please?