xevape
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Posts posted by xevape
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I'll just deal with it and replace it with a 1A board.
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I've experienced a number of chips that "autolock" the cause is oxidization inside the actual fire button. This may also lead to auto-fire but that for me is undetermined.
The resolution is quite simple.
There is a small tab on the side of the fire button that unsnaps the main hold down to the button.
Remove it carefully, I use a x-acto knife. Be sure not to bend it too much because its a pain in the butt to remold and have fit back on perfectly. Also keep in mind these parts are TINY so any sudden moment or grinding is going to make the plastic piece that holds the metal piece on not hold well. BE CAREFUL AND CALM
Carefully take the green button membrane out and place it aside.
There is a gold plate, this plate is what has the black oxidization under it. Take the plate out and turn it over, inspect.
Take a pencil eraser and carefully erase the black burn in. Once completed put it all back together. You now have a functioning button.
Alternately if you still experience issues and your chip is our of warranty you can remove the portion of the button you just took apart and hard-wire a button, effectively eliminating the PCB button. -
I'd provide a re-flow service however Evolv seems to do their jobs quite well at RMA'ing chips and assuming responsibility ;-)
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Felt the urge to create something wild in a small G box. Messed around with these LiPos in my airplane so I had ordered an extra one. I CNC cut the lid of this Alpine Tech and rewired the LiPo for a smaller quick disconnect. Had an extra VaporShark Lying around so I ripped that apart and created a pretty slick monster mod for basic vaping around the house. Also retrofitted a 16MM button instead of the basic 12mm, blue is my fav. It also fits a 950 3S battery if anything were to ever happen to the Graphene
Enjoy
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Pulledunder said:
Thanks for finding that pic xevape
That wasn't the one I wanted that was just one I built that day. -
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Use a 1/8" Drill bit to drill the hole out.
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stuartro said:
I agree. I'm guessing that Evolv care about these forums and have a moderator / adminâperhaps everyone's just away for the Christmas break?
Admin status, I'll keep it clean -
If there were one they should probably clean this up...if not, raises hand....
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jurdanas said:
[QUOTE=xevape][QUOTE=jurdanas]"xevape"
COOL. Thank you. I understand , but which use "LED" model? "smd 0603 ??????" ? Please, if you can.
Yes[/QUOTE]
Not full answer . SMD0603 have about 240 manufacturer model.
http://eu.mouser.com/Optoelectronics/LED-Indication/_/N-b1d1k?Keyword=led+smd+0603&FS=True
http://uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?pageSize=25&st=led+smd+0603&catalogId=15001&categoryId=700000006139&langId=44&storeId=10151Thank you.
[/QUOTE]Lens Color/Style = Water Clear Orientation = Top View Package / Case = 0603 Mounting Style = SMD/SMT
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jurdanas said:
"xevape"
COOL. Thank you. I understand , but which use "LED" model? "smd 0603 ??????" ? Please, if you can.
Yes -
http://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7833594
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So basically I was tasked with stripping a DNA 200 from a 2A vaporshark and found some interesting components and differences. I then decided to see if the 1A board could house the LED's, the same LED functionality as the 2A chip and found that they are all looped together but if you add all 3 LED's you get the fire and charge functionality.
https://www.instagram.com/p/_LMA9LgWKh/
top LED is GROUND/POSITIVE
bottom left is GROUND/POSITIVE
bottom right is POSITIVE/GROUND
If you need more guidance or are interested in adding LED's just hit me up it was pretty simple. -
I would gut that box just to plop a lipo in it...I never understood triple 18650 for a DNA200. Just doesn't make sense to me. Those wires though. That is pretty lame for such a nice looking box.
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Stand firm on this one I want to bring up an old topic that is this exact issue and it killed my entire USB Bus and Ethernet Chipset.
READ THIS:
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/68271-topic/?do=findComment&comment=914056
I sent it back to Evolv whom stated there was nothing wrong with the chip and failed I neglected to take it any further. -
Does anyone have any DNA chips with bad screens or no screens they want to get rid of due to failed builds or anything? I am building a station that does not require screens and that are programmed and locked to a specific range. I'd be willing to buy a few if any are available. PM me if you do.
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Chowderhead72 said:
I'm having a problem with the fire button on one of my bottom fed dna200s. The switch works about 60% of the time. What's weird is if I hold it down the screen will light up but it takes about 5-6 seconds to actually fire. I'm thinking the switches you have posted would give me a great reason to play with the fx-100. Do you have a link for the actual switches?
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=8LLMQjkBYsIQvOYeECRfXQ%3d%3d
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Nick said:
[QUOTE=Droopydroors]Well after rollback the problem still occurs. When it falls asleep after an hour it will not wake up unless plugged into a power source. When this happens it is still recognized in escribe. It happens at any battery percentage. When it wakes up the battery is correct from when it feel asleep so it's not discharging. All cells are balanced and reading correctly. So weird.
Okay, thanks for doing some testing for me! I would suggest then getting the board swapped out and opening a Ticket on the main site. We can then get the board returned for examination and get a new one out to you![/QUOTE]
Nick I got one doing the exact same thing, what was the resolution? -
Goto the Themes tab and scroll down....its on the bottom.
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Manny4pacman said:
I want to see an option to turn off youre device into the software . Like system of or something ....or an option to reduce the hard sleep time ....as long it does not use power !!
Yesterday (evening) i loaded the mod at 100 % this morning when i woke up i only had 50 % left
I guess im doing something wrong
Your not doing anything wrong, you need to RMA the chip. I just RMA'ed a chip that sucked power from batteries with no atty on. I would literally charge to 100% and then upon disconnect within 2 hrs it was at 40%.
Dna200 board Fire switch
in Installation and Assembly
Posted
If you have 20gauge and your only going to use like 3cm of it you can easily strip away enough to gain access to the strands and pull out about 5 or 6 strands to make it 22 gauge