PaulM

A silly tip, but maybe someone will find it useful... Since I started vaping years ago, I have always charged my batteries in external chargers (My DNA device is the only exception) and I never leave them unattended. But what if I have to go to another room for few minutes? Some time ago I could see my brand new battery (one of the 3 top brands) venting in my external charger (things happen - it didn't explode - I managed to take it outside - probably it had an undetectable internal short - it was then replaced by the retailer). Now I always put my charger into a DIY 'silo' - a solid large metal pot with a cover, and I keep it away from anything flammable. In the worst case scenario my room will resemble a cloud-chasing competition with everybody vaping some stinky juices, but I hope it won't burn to ashes.

Here are the 2 csvs that you need, plus a bonus: a csv for Sony VTC5 LG_HG2.csv SAMSUNG_30Q_3000mAh.csv SONY_VTC5_2600mAh.csv

For Avocado24, I usually build a single (spaced) coil: SS-316L, 28 AWG, 7 wraps, coil's diameter: 3.5 mm. This gives me about 0.8 ohms. My profile for Avocado24: 20W, medium preheat at 35W/0.5 s, 210C - that is 400-something F, I guess . That would be a MTL setup. If I wanted to chase some clouds with this wire/RTA, I would probably build 2 coils, 6-7 wraps, and open the air holes. But as a former pipe smoker I hardly ever inhale, not even MTL, and DL is totally out of question for me.

You can also go to Mod tab in eScribe and check if the manufacturer has set up your device. Some manufacturers don't provide this essential data for their products (shame on them). For example, HCigar didn't provide data for my T75's resistance and thermal properties. If that's the case with your mod, test its internal resistance (or find some reliable data online - for example 0.0045 ohm worked for my VT75, but measuring the mod's internal resistance with a copper rod or - better - a copper threaded plug inserted into the 510 connector will give you more accurate data). Also, when you can leave the mod connected to your PC for a few hours, run "Case analyzer" (you'll find it in the Mod tab in eScribe) and then let the tool use the collected data. By doing this you'll help the device better calculate the actual temperature of the coil. PS. It's my first post on this forum, so HELLO EVERYBODY.