imfallen_angel

[QUOTE=Wayneo]@imfallen_angel In your 1st Device Monitor screen, it shows your room temp ~68F, board temp ~117F, that's about 50F difference, probably from the batteries. If you could do another print screen, and put that movable vertical where it shows the most sag, and report to us that value. [/QUOTE] This isn't clear.. which sag are you talking about.. aka what value do you mean? Please remember that this is my first DNA device and I'm a novice to it. The temp. room are about 73F and board goes to 115 (approx.) when triggered. When in standby, the board is still at 96 (maybe due to charging). Tested with and without the battery cover and no difference, even if I kept the batteries as cool as possible. [QUOTE] The mod resistance is on your battery tab showing .004 which is a perfectly respectable value if it is correct. Although the Mfgr should set it, and perhaps they did, it doesn't mean it's correct for your individual mod. Quick 5 minutes for you to validate. [/QUOTE] Lost Vape shipped this mod with absolutely no settings that I can see, just the profiles for which the SS (and SSL) appears off. I've looked up at values that some people have stated to be average for this mod (as I do not have a brass pin to test myself). I've looked around and decided to go with 0.005 as this appears the most average figure I could find being reported. [QUOTE]"I did the mod resistance test, which is part of why I locked it ..." I think you meant you locked the coil ohms/resistance lock. The last 2 lines of my post were a direct copy/paste from the DNA75 datasheet published by Evolv. I trust their words and have never locked my resistance ever. [/QUOTE] After reading a LOT of forum threads about this mod, it was recurring that locking the resistance can assist greatly with this mod. But I've tried both (locked and unlocked) and at this time (as I'm doing these tests best I can) it doesn't appear to make a difference either way. [QUOTE]"I already tried the Steam engine profile, the default and the 0.00092 value with absolutely no success" So many moving pieces from your posts, I'm attempting to start you from square one with a solid setup. You really do need to run your own 'thermal characteristics' for TC to work accurately. Either you wiped reset them to defaults, or Lost Vape never populated the values. Either way, doing your own, while 3 hours is long, will be the most accurate. I've done it for each of my DNA's. [/QUOTE] I've tried all three setups (profiles approach), rebuilding the profiles after doing a "Restore Defaults." Sadly, Lost Vape's site doesn't even mention the DNA 75 anywhere, so I guess they've stopped supporting it or it's make to use the Evolve basic profiles. 3 hours for what exactly? [QUOTE]"Where I run the same tank/build on a chinese mod at 340F, on the Therion I have to be over 500F... that's way too much a difference to be "not as accurate" here." I agree with you. It is crazy, but not hopeless. Your mod seems fairly new (less than 1000 puffs), and probably still within Lost Vapes 6 month warranty, but I think it's too early to call it a faulty mod. [/QUOTE] Well, I can modify and get things to work in a fairly "normal" way with the adjustments I've made, maybe it's "normal" for a DNA, but I find it crazy different from all my other mods. [QUOTE]So ..... do you wanna get it done right, or you happy with "At least right now, it appear to be stable with the settings I have on it" [/QUOTE] Well, unless something ends up being definitive, "stable" might be all I can do and may be the "right" way, if it works and keeps working like what I believe it should be like.... [QUOTE]Edit: "But one thing I can say is that after just a little while (maybe 1/2 an hour of vaping), my batteries (that I left in the Therion overnight to charge) are already down to about ½." And you're sure these are new Authentic LG's? I vape at double your wattage on the same batteries for much longer on all my mods. [/QUOTE] Yes, absolutely certain... and while the screen showed about halfway, it stayed there for the whole evening as I used the mod to test it out. It actually stayed fairly stable with the settings I've put on it, but I'm far from finding it better than my other mods as far as my vaping experience goes. So for me, it's been working ok-ish today after the headaches earlier, but I have to wonder if this time it'll hold.

hmm... Well, the batteries are new, married, HG-02s I did the mod resistance test, which is part of why I locked it, due to from what I've read a few places, should help stabilize things. I already tried the Steam engine profile, the default and the 0.00092 value with absolutely no success. Where I run the same tank/build on a chinese mod at 340F, on the Therion I have to be over 500F... that's way too much a difference to be "not as accurate" here. The resistance is stable but appears that when the warm up the mod (in the three profiles above) develops some sort of issue. Not sure where you see the batteries getting hot/under load. But one thing I can say is that after just a little while (maybe 1/2 an hour of vaping), my batteries (that I left in the Therion overnight to charge) are already down to about 1/2. At least right now, it appear to be stable with the settings I have on it... but still this is crazy.

Spaced... tested as tested can be, no hot spots or anything. I've been building for over a year, as I said, never any issues, just with this mod.

Here you go... Well, for less accurate, they are still giving me a much better experience out of the box and do give me a very consistent experience across all of them... I wanted to see how different a DNA would be, and so far, it's been 3 days of serious headaches and for "more accurate", well.....it's getting ridiculous.

OK, I've reset my mod to default, and back to bad TC... so adjusted 316L to 0.0013 (that gives 1.529 @ 800F), it's "Temperature dominant", 45W, 55W preheat at soft (1) and it's working fairly normal again.... I wonder how long this will last. I've locked my OHM at 0.28 which the Atomizer Analyser confirmed... Coils are a dual RTA built, wires are simple generic. The thing is.. on ALL my "cheap" chinese mods, I have absolutely no issues at all, I can flip the tank from one to another mod (Eleaf, SMOK, Joytech) and put in the exact same settings and get the exact same experience (warmth, and TC cut-off, etc,).

DANG IT, one day later and I'm back to issues where it was fine for a while, then it's back to nothing consistent....I just put the mod down for a few, then I go to use it again (nothing changed) and now I had to increase the temp by almost 200F to get the same warmth. I've flipped back and forth with the settings, (going from my profile to the SS -standard" and it'll be fine for a few, then no more warmth again... This is getting to be very frustrating.

Ok thanks, then I'm perplexed about all this... I know my wire is 316L, all my non DNA device balance out the very same warmth at the same settings, and what I've done is the only way I managed (after hours of testing with the .00092 parameter that simply didn't work right at all and trying to adjust manually a curve that would give me a better result). And from what I've found online in other forums, etc. including very this thread, not a single place have I found someone stating "this is the solution" and confirmed by every one else that would try it. The few "solutions" looked like patches solutions follow with maybe one person saying that it worked for them, but then others that would say that it either didn't work for them is just temporarily. Right now, my "solution" as worked for all of my tanks (several tested)... and I'm at the point of simply going, if it's working, let's not mess with it anymore.

Just got a Therion which is my first DNA, and got it as I've been curious about the praise they get.... and... Sadly, it's been difficult. The 316L settings being completely wrong, took me hours to track the info down on how to fix it. Just found this thread and saw that it's still something that people are having issues with and no solid solution. So here goes: I finally got it to work correctly by manually building a profile for the material (in Escribe) and long story short, used the 316L temp coefficient of resistances of 0.00159, then adjusted as per: 68F=1.0, and 800F=1.37. Now all my tanks that I've tested is now matching as close as possible the experience I've always had with all my other mods. I hope this helps anyone that might be having similar issues.