jesseseetai
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Posts posted by jesseseetai
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10 hours ago, 67exec said:
Have you checked the screws that hold the coil in?
yep made sure the screws were tight
9 hours ago, giz_60 said:and/or.... if using contact coils, try spacing them a bit...metal expands & contracts as it heats & cools, possibly causing your fluctuation in resistance...just a thought...
I do spaced coils so that shouldn't be the issue either
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built a new coil that read at .54 when I put it on my mod. it stayed there or would sometimes go up to .55 for a little bit and then back to .54. after about 2 weeks, today it just went down and starting reading at .53 and the vape is weaker/cool and it hits temperature protection very quickly. any ideas what would cause this? I took my atty off and cleaned the threads and the 510 on the mod but it's still happening.
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scooby said:
Yep, can confirm it works perfectly.
awesome, thanks! -
I wanted to follow up in this post. I pretty much have the same question and wanted to know how this ended up working.
I was thinking of making a rectangular brass or copper plate with a hole for the 510 to go through on one side and a negative contact dimple on the other side, and then the 510 nut would secure it in place. -
thanks for all the responses guys. I think I'll either go with silicone or PTFE wire. Any advantages one over the other?
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retird said:
Deleted.... What is the amp rating of #14 magnet wire?
I found this video of a guy testing 16 awg at pretty high currents
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPll6fdUjnY -
ChunkyButt200 said:
if you're going to use it as power wires and not as signal wires (up/down/fire buttons), make sure it's the correct thickness. too thin and bye bye enamel coating, hello short city. also don't forget the positive wire from the board to the 510 moves with the 510's center spring loaded pin (if you are using a spring loaded 510), be sure to account for that back and forth movement of putting on and taking off atty's.
I was planning on using 14 awg for the output to the 510. and 18 awg for the battery connections and ground. -
is it okay to use enameled copper wire (magnet wire) for a build instead of silicone insulated wire? I like that the magnet wire can be formed to the creases of the box and won't move around. I've seen other modders use it for dna40 builds.
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so i reset the mod back to factory defaults and i'm still having the same issue. i have a resistance reading of .56 and its hitting temp protect immediately and a cold vape at 23 watts. if i override ohms to .58 then it vapes way better and isn't aggressively hitting temp protect. could this be a bad 510 connection?
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yeah i'll set it back to zero, but the problem was occurring before i changed it from 0.
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i have the mod resistance set to 0.008. and i agree, you wouldn't think 0.02 would make that much of a difference but it's making a huge difference
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something is wrong with the mod/chip. i've now tested it with different attys and it's consistently reading the ohms at least .02 low (the one time it read the ohms as higher seemed to be a fluke). once i go into escribe and adjust to make the resistance .02 ohms higher then everything works much better.
i took apart the mod to look at the connections. let me know what you guys think. it's kind hard to see the 510 connection cause of the tape.
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update
so i built an SS coil in my Narda (authentic). put it on the mod and it read the ohms at .63. it was vaping good but i noticed it was only hitting a temp of 135 C and i have the temp set to 240 C and it's running at 22 watts. i thought 135 C seemed a bit low, so i hooked it up to escribe and did the atomizer reading and let it sit for a while and it was showing the raw ohm as .587 ... so i did "override ohms" and put it in at .587 and now it's vaping great.
when i initially put the Narda on it was completely cold, i had just finished building it. so my question is, why would it initially read at .63? -
dwcraig1 said:
0.41? to 0.46? is around 12.5%, it should have remembered it.
oh you know what, i changed my value to 6% ... i thought it would be better to use a lower value because 25% seemed high to me. do most of you guys just leave it at 25%? -
awsum140 said:
That is the same behavior I have with mine. The workaround, of course, is to "reset" by unscrewing the atty, firing, yadda, yadda, but that gets pretty old pretty fast.
i don't think it has anything to do with resetting it. i think if i would have chosen to keep the same atty it would be vaping fine. i think the issue is just that it's reading the cold resistance as too low. -
okay so i just went to use it after letting it sit for 2 hours. i hit the fire button and it gave me the new atomizer prompt. weird since i hadn't removed the atty. i hit yes for new atty and it read the coil at .46 res. i didn't lock it this time but it's still back to really fast temp protection and then only firing at around 10 watts
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dwcraig1 said:
I think I'd be checking the mod's 510's connection to the the atty using atomizer analyzer, this sounds like maybe a poor connection between the mod's positive pin and the atty's positive pin. Or poor ground on the mod's 510. What mod is this?
it's the vapecige sd mini 75 -
VapingBad said:
Locking res is a last resort for connection problems, DNAs are smarter boards they track how the coils and board change temp as they cool and stabilise, this is known as refinement mode. I only use res lock with one atty that has poor connections due to poorly machined threads in aluminium in the ground path, everything else I let the board work it out. I have been doing that since Oct 14 with DNA 40, 200 & 75 and works great, but with non DNA boards (YiHi, IPV & Joyetec) I have often had to lock res to get them to work properly and consistantly.
hmm interesting... well maybe i'll give that a try and see how it goes -
VapingBad said:
You should be able to get the profiles back just by selecting them, but they will be very similar. I wouldn't lock res unless that is the only way to clear your problem. Sorry yes cold res too high would cause it not to reach the temp limit, my bad. Try setting your mod res back to 0.000, connecting the atty when cool and letting the board refine the resistance reading. Have a few puffs and let it rest for ten mins, repeat this a few time and it tracks the resistance and the board temp as they cool to get a more accurate value. If that doesn't do it, then it is checking the connections.
you don't lock res when using it in TC mode? wouldn't that make the TC inconsistent since the res will be constantly changing?
what do you mean by let the board refine the resistance reading?
sorry for all the questions -
VapingBad said:
I only use the built in materials profiles for Ti and 316 (I use it for 316L as well), your preheat is quite low and although that shouldn't cause a problem it will help an weak vape. I would increase the punch a few notches and put the power to 40 to 50 W if your watts are at 25. I have not used a serpent so don't know if they have a particularly high resistance, but the rout of your problem is likely reading the cold too high. Also checking the connections are solid including battery, 510 and board/case grounding is worth trying. Probably best to stick with Ti while sorting this out with it's higher TCR.
it was initially happening with the built in profiles, so thats why i decided to try the steam engine ones. is there somewhere i can get the originals back?
the reason i set the low preheat is because it was hitting temp protection so fast and aggressively.
it's funny you should say that, i took the atty off and reattached it to see if that would fix it. i recognized it as a new atomizer and i locked the resistance in at .48 instead of the original .44 (since i had vaped a little the resistance was higher) and now it's vaping much better and not hitting temp protect at all. weird. but isn't this the opposite of what you're saying?
also the mod is a VapeCige SD Mini 75 -
hey everyone,
so i just got my first dna 75 mod and i'm getting a weak cool vape. i measured the mod resistance at .008 and uploaded the csv for Titanium 1 and SS 316L from steam engine.
i'm currently running a serpent mini with a .41 coil and it keeps hitting temperature protect immediately and is only giving it like like 7-8 watts. i have the temperature set to 260 C, watts at 22, preheat at 25 watts, punch at 6, and preheat for 1 second. I lowered the watts to 17, but i'm still getting the same issue.
i built it first with titanium wire and had the same issue. the wicking in the tank was done minimally so it shouldn't be a wicking issue.
any help is appreciated -
so any updates on this?
resistance change after 2 weeks
in General Discussion
Posted
It's an Armor. yeah it's still fluctuating between .54 and .53. Maybe it's just time to change the coil.