jj6404

Thanks guys. Looks accurate now. Out of curiosity, the watt-hours should be more than 19.96, right? Why do we even have to "trick" the board to display accurate battery life?

Hey guys! I'm so glad to return to the DNA world after my Hcigar VT200 got stolen on a metro bus about 6 months ago. Finally got my hands on a black Therion 166 and loving it. Anyway, I grabbed a pair of the new VTC6s off orbtronic for this mod and am having some trouble with the battery settings. I got it set Lithium polymer, and 3000 mAh, 2 cell, 7.4 pack voltage in the watt-hour calc. But everytime I pop them in freshly charged it shows 91% on my Therion and seems to go down quickly from there. I've got do be doing something wrong...Right? From what I've read you're supposed to put nominal voltage for the pack voltage. But the listed nominal voltage does vary for these VTC6s from 3.6-3.7 depending on what source you read... Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I'm sorry, but YOU are mistaken. In your original post you said "RX200". The Wismec RX200 is NOT a DNA device. The Wismec Reuleaux IS a DNA device. Get it? If you have both then you should certainly know what both are called... (because it's on the box).

I haven't been on here in awhile but hoping I can get some advice. Been real busy lately and vaping on the same SS316L 24G fused claptoned with 36G KA1 for almost a month now. It's been through maybe four rinses/rewicks and they are pretty tan/brown now. Like the brown from oxidation? not from juice gunk. As in, I'm able to burn/rinse all the gunk off but the wires are still brown. Does everyone still think they are OK to vape on? I've asked this question before on other forums and always get a mix of answers but I still ask again and again because I'm hoping some metallurgist will see it and impart some educated advice...

White as in white hot? No I pulsed them bright orange a few times to work out hot spots.

So maybe somebody (David) can help me out here... I just got my UD SS316L 28 gauge and my SSS304 32 gauge that I got from Unkamen. I ordered these wires specifically to make all SS fused claptons. Now an hour later I've gone through three builds and who knows how many feet of wire and I'll I've gotten is hotspot hell (all spaced builds btw), and all 3 builds (2.5mm ID spaced 6 wrap dual coils) have been kicking back to wattage mode immediately through Jaquith V3, 4, 3.25, a custom Steam Engine CSV and the SS mode on my RX200. What I don't get is, how when I've used several SS316L+Kanthal fused Clapton builds successfully in both my DNA200 and my RX200, a SS316L+SS304 build won't stay in temp control... And on my latest "success", I've noticed this! Now is that freakin' rust??? That's how it looks after about 5 toots at 50-75 watts with the cotton still wet as you can see... Why is this happening?

Ok, I'll check. While on the topic, let me ask a question completely unrelated to this thread and forum (lol), does anyone know how to reboot an Evic VTC Mini to force the New Coil/Same Coil prompt?

How do you hard or soft reboot???

Here you go David. 24g UD SS316L cores, 36g KA1 fused claptons. Came out to 0.09. Using your 3.25 because I get random slight dry hits but overall I'm impressed that TC is working at all. Set at 95 watts 450 F or so with preheat disabled.

I just put a dual coil twisted 24g UD 316L 10 wrap, 2.5mm ID build in my Twisted Messes RDA and at first it kept popping out of TC. It came out to 0.1 ohms, wonder if that's the reason. It's been working somewhat on Jaquith's files but I have to set the temp low because it seems to be reading it real low. I was thinking of making a CSV with the Wire Wizard but knowing that Steam Engine's 316 CSVs suck already, I wonder if making a twisted CSV will be any better.

Do you think it's more stable because you're building at such "high ohms"? I know it is still subohm but you know so many build below 0.5 and such these days. I have 24g SS316L and the most wraps I can fit in my largest rdas is 11 wraps which still comes out to about 0.25 ohms or so. I can never get it above 0.3.

How's the flavor? And what csv did you use?

I've tried a lot of wires and for me by far Titanium has been the best. I prefer 24 gauge Titan Wires (Titanium Grade 1) http://titanwires.com/titan-wire-retailers/ Here's the CSV that I use and NEVER do I get 'dark red' aka glowing wires nor burnt cotton http://www.filedropper.com/titanwirescsvfiles For more help, I'd recommend reviewing the 'Custom TCR' help found here http://www.evolvapor.com/guide/story.html Good luck![/QUOTE] David. Do you think your Titan wire csv will work better than the Steam Engine Ti1 csv for my lightning vapes Ti? It's surgical grade 1 so should be same as Titan right?

Thanks. It's working fine again. Like I said I don't have the issue often. Only randomly after not vaping it for a while. And I don't have an aromarizer lol. It's on my Velocity, so I guess I could still do the test.

Hey guys. So I've been having this issue every now and then with my Hcigar VT200 where when I press the fire button the wattage blasts at 120-150% of my set wattage for at least a full second. And I can see the wattage go that high on my display. My current build is a dual 10 wrap 24gTi/36gKA1 clapton build in my Velocity at 0.14 ohms. But it has happened with my spaced SS coils as well I believe. I'm using escribe 1.0.35.2 and the latest firmware and the Steam Engine Ti1 csv which works fine 99% of the time. Preheat at 120w/4 punch/0.5 sec with set wattage at 55 watts. It hasn't happened in a while but it happened last night right after disconnecting from my laptop after changing some screens. I double-checked afterwards to make sure my profiles were unaltered and they weren't. But yeah it just fires at like 100 watts for at least one second and then drops to 55. I put it away after a couple semi-dry hits last night and this morning picked it up and it was fine.