DkPatriots

No problem! Any chance you are Anthony_Vapes from reddit, or are you a different Anthony?

I did! You can wire it using the shortcut, but it will result it voltage drop across the board, which means the board will believe your batteries are slightly more "dead" than they really are. This is minor, but it is there so it is recommended to run the extra wires. You can use the shortcut though, and it is safe to do so. I ended up running the extra wires.

@dwcraig1 - Thanks for testing this on your mod! It may be a 200 instead of a 250C, but it makes me feel better knowing it didn't work on that board. @retird - I have set the mod to 2 Cell in eScribe already. I will connect the battery sled and terminals (B+ and B-) and the charging circuit (G,1,2,3,4) then put in the batteries to do my testing. I was hoping to be able to do some testing before that, but it isn't a big deal to connect the battery sled and charging circuit before the testing. Thanks

Good morning everyone! I'm doing my first custom build and had a question. I soldered GND and OUT to the top of my DNA250C and I wanted to check my joints, so I connected the board to my computer via USB and opened eScribe. I then opened the Atomizer Analyzer and it says "?". I tried shorting the ends of the GND and OUT wires to measure the internal resistance and it still shows "?". I then took a loop of 26awg SS316L and connected that to the top of the GND and OUT wires and still get "?" in the Atomizer Analyzer. Does the analyzer not work without batteries connected? I know the screen will not turn on without batteries connected, so maybe I need batteries for this as well? I did wire up my battery sled, but I haven't connected it to the board it. I wanted to check each step as I went along to make troubleshooting any issues that come up easier, so currently I'm "stuck" with a wired up battery sled (not connected to the board), and a wired up GND and OUT at the top of the board. Does anyone know what this "?" in the Atomizer Analyzer means? Are my GND and OUT are shorted (they certainly don't look shorted to the naked eye)? Do I need to connect my battery sled before testing my GND and OUT in the Atomizer Analyzer? Thank you!

Thanks for this. I don't know why I didn't think to just submit a ticket and ask the people who make and support it... I just submitted a ticket.

Good morning @retird! I feel like I may not have been clear. I know G, T1, T2, T3, and T4 control the balanced charging, and I know that the DNA boards support Vape while Charging (the charging circuit actually shuts off when you press the fire button so it isn't actually firing while charging, but it does allow you to use the device while it is plugged into USB for charging). What I'm looking to find out is whether or not I have to run the small charging wires parallel to Battery Sled Positive and Battery Sled Negative, or whether I can bridge the connections at the board. Below is a picture of a DNA250C build by David4500 (he's a big contributor to reddit.com/r/OpenPV). It certainly looks like he has gone with the bridging method in the picture (the second wiring diagram I linked in my post), and there are no secondary charging wires run from Battery Sled Positive and Battery Sled Negative (the top of the sled in the picture). He only ran the wire from the bottom of the battery sled (where Battery1 negative is connected to Battery2 positive) to T1 on the charging circuit. G on the charging circuit looks to be bridged off of B- on the chip, and T2, T3, and T4 appear to be bridged off of B+ on the board. I'm looking for confirmation on whether or not wiring as shown in my second wiring diagram (and appears to be shown on the build in the picture below) will work properly. In the end, what the "shortcut" method does is use the same wire for drawing in battery power as it does for sending power out to the batteries. Since the charging circuit shuts off when you fire the mod while it is plugged in, this "should" work fine in theory since the single wires to the battery sled positive and negative would never be drawing current (firing the mod) and sending current (charging the batteries) at the same time. The only risk I see in using the shortcut is that power is delivered to the charging circuit when you fire... But electricity takes the path of least resistance, so there should be no excess power delivered to the charging circuit. That said... I didn't engineer the board, and while I'm very familiar with board level IT work since I do it, I don't know if there is anything funky in this chip that would make this "shortcut" wiring not work properly. So in short, I know exactly what all of the pins on the board do. I know Evolv made this chip to support up to 4 cells, and that the charging circuit connections are laid out the way they are it to make is very easy to plug it into a LiPo battery by soldering a JST XH or JST PH connector directly onto G, T1, T2, T3, T4. For people using a battery sled though, the "shortcut" wiring method of bridging B- to G and B+ to T2, T3, and T4 "should" work. I'm just looking for clarity from someone who has done it saying "yes you can do that, I do that" or someone knows more about the way the charging circuit works to tell me something like, "No, this will send excessive voltage into T2, T3, and T4 which will burnt out your charging circuitry".

Hey everyone! All of my parts for my custom build came in today, and it will be the first mod I've built! I have a wiring question though. Here is the wiring diagram from the DNA250C manual: I noticed that there are two wire going form battery negative to B- and "G". Additionally, the positive going to the B+ has a second wire going from positive to 2, 3, and 4. So instead of running a second wire from Positive and Negative of the batteries, Can I just bridge B- and B+ to "G" and "2, 3, 4" respectively? Here's a diagram showing what I mean: Would the above allow the mod to draw from the batteries and do the balanced charging? And allow me to vape while charging? Or do I need to run the second wires? I've been looking at pictures of people's non-LiPo builds, and none of them show how they wire up the balanced charging due to the picture angle, but none appear to have a second set of wires from battery positive and negative to the balanced charging, so I'm assuming they are wired up bridged from B- and B+ like in my second photo. That or people don't connect the charging. Anyway, I'd love some clarity on this before I do my build this weekend! Thank everyone!

@antyac2108 I stumbled upon this post you made and have a question for you! I see that you used an AlpineTech GXL2 box in your build, along with the MosMax 2x700 dual 21700/20700 sled. I'm planning on doing the same thing in a DNA250C build I plan to do in the next week or so. My question is... can you fit two 21700 batteries in there? Toward the "top" of the mod it appears that you have enough room between the edge of the left hand battery and the chip on the board to fit the extra 2mm width of two 21700 batteries. There is a chip coming off the board lower down in the picture, and it isn't clear if a 21700 can fit without touch that chip. Lastly, you don't want the side of the battery to touch the positive lead you have on the board, because if the wrap gets damaged (or melted) you'll have a short. So the shorter version of my question is... Can you fit 21700 into there without touching the chips on the board or the positive and negative leads from the bottom of the board?

@67exec That's beautiful! My soldering skills are not nearly good enough to do something like that (yet at least). "On a side note, I get better battery life on a 2000mah 2s venom lipo than I do from 2 30Qs" - That's what I'm looking for. I can drain through 2 30Q batteries by early afternoon, so I have to charge during the day. That isn't a huge deal during the week, but it gets annoying when I take a day trip and need to carry along 2-4 extra batteries. @Ak89 So now that's i'm not tired and I re-read this whole thread. It appears the 1600mAh 4S fits into the AlpineTech B box with no grinding, but the 1800mAh didn't fit and you needed to grind it down. How much of a difference in battery life is there between the two packs? @Both Of you: There doesn't seem to be a Mooch for Lipos, and Mooch removed all his lipo test data. According to Mooch, two 30Q batteries at 10 amps have about 7.5 watt hours of juice in them, so two gives me 15 Wh. I'm looking for 20-25 Watt hours from the build I plan to do. Ak89 said that "a decent 4s 1600mah will be 22wh-24wh", which means with that 1600mAh battery I could go with the B Box and (I believe) not need to grind down anything inside the box to fit it with a DNA250C. Any idea how many Watt hours the 2200mAh 4S or the 2200mAh 4S Graphene would give me in comparison? I could go with either of those batteries and the AlpineTech N1 enclosure, which should fit either packs in it without needing to grind anything down. Could either of you provide me with a link to the white plugs you attach to the bottom of your DNA chips so that you can plug the charging port of the battery right into that? That solution looks a *LOT* easier than cutting the charge port off and soldering the wires directly to the board. Edit: It looks like the 1600 mAh battery will fit into a GXL2 Box, which is slightly smaller than the B Box. Any idea if I can save some space and go with the GXL2 over the B box? I'm now thinking I'd like to go small (GLX2) or large (N1), as the B Box seems unnecessary at this point. N1 for 2200mAh, or GLX2 for 1600mAh. Edit2: I found AK89's picture of the GXL box with the 1600 mAh battery in it. No grinding needed for it to fit. So It looks like I'm definitely going to go with the GXL2 box I linked, or the N1... depending on what I can find out about battery life. Thank you both! You have been extremely helpful!

I'm going to be building my own 250C soon, so I stumbled upon this thread while doing my research. I noticed that above you said "I ground out so it will hold 4s 1800". What did you grind? How did that battery not fit? I was thinking I would use the same case and battery you linked in your original response to this thread. The size looks great and that 4S battery should give me better battery life than my current two 30Qs do. From what I can tell from the specs... the lipo battery you linked shouldn't be too wide since it is 26mm while the inner dimension of the enclosure is 27mm. The height shouldn't be an issues either since the enclosure is 108mm and the battery is 89mm. So I'm just a bit confused! Lastly, the five charing wires on the battery plug into the bottom of the DNA board in order, starting with black wire to ground on the board, then green to "1" on the board, yellow to "2" on the board, etc, correct? Thank you!

Thank you for this, it makes a ton of sense. My Therion typically thinks it's warmer than it is by around 10-15 degrees. Currently it thinks that the room temp is 81.3, but the thermostat in this room is set to 68 and is reading 68. I've done the case analyzer which made the mod better at knowing the room temp; the mod does a really good job when it's been sat down for 60+ minutes. After sitting overnight it is typically dead on accurate. However if I'm vaping on it the temp accuracy isn't great. I'm currently playing video games at my PC, and taking a few puffs every 10 minutes or so, and have been for an hour. As I said above, the mod believes the temp is around 13.3 degrees higher than it really is.

Okay I followed your guide and set my internal resistance to .006 in eScribe. The Cold Ohms and now closer to the Raw Ohms, still not matched, but closer. I also did some experimentation using the Device Monitor. I found a wattage in wattage mode that gives me a good vape, then I put the unit into TC mode and set the wattage to the same that I had in wattage mode, and set the temp to 600 so that TC could not kick in. The device monitor showed the temp going up to 500-520 degrees. I've only used the OBS Engine in TC mode on the Therion, but I have used other tanks in TC mode on other mods. The OBS Engine is top airflow while the others I've used in TC mode in the past are bottom airflow. This leads me to believe that top airflow just needs higher temps to get a good vape. This explains the OBS Engine needed TC set to 500-520 vs the typical 400-430 for tank I've used in the past. Does that make sense or am I incorrect in the top airflow requiring higher temps? Unfortunately I do not have a bottom airflow rebuildable Tank to test this on.

.004 for mod resistance is what the default is. I have not reset this for my mod yet, as I don't know how to get the mod's internal resistance value to put into eScribe. I assume it will be covered in the Evolv Training Course that I'm going through, I just haven't gotten to anything covering that yet. To my knowledge (and I could be wrong here), eScribe and the mod will use the settings provided, so even if .004 is wrong for my internal resistance, it should still set Cold Ohms to Nominal Ohms. So if my internal resistance was .007 but set to .004, the mod should still use .004 for nominal / cold ohms. In my case, Nominal Ohms is always .004 below Raw Ohms (as it should be). But Cold Ohms is always about .005 - .006 below Nominal and I have no idea why.

@Giz_60 Mod Resistance value is set to .004, as shown in the third picture of my original post. The first picture in my original post shows the issue with Raw, Nomimal, and Cold. I took that screenshot after letting the mod sit for 30 minutes while plugged into eScribe running the Atomizer Analyzer. I've entered what is shown in that screenshot below: Mod Resistance: .004 Raw Ohms: .334 Nominal Ohms: .330 Cold Ohms: .325 Raw and Nominal are correct. Cold ohms was set to .325 instead of .330 (to my knowledge cold ohms should be equal to nominal ohms when the coil has cooled to room temp). I've repeated this about 10 times with different builds on different atomizers and each time cold ohms are set lower than nominal ohms.

"maybe i'm missing something but your main complaint is the need for a higher temp setting and cold ohms not matching up, right?" That is the result of the symptom. My main complaint / concern is that I'm worried there may be something wrong with the mod/board because the cold ohms always get set around .010 ohms below what the actual cold ohms are. I was hoping something in my eScribe settings would "pop out" as being the obvious problem to someone who knew more about it than I do (I'm only about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way through the online training that is provided by Evolv). I have no problem running the temp higher to get a good vape, I just want to make sure my mod isn't defective in some way. I've had really, really bad luck with mods this last year, which is why I bought the Therion instead of getting yet another mass produced Chinese throw away. TL;DR - The main concern is that I want to make sure nothing is wrong with my mod. It sets the cold ohms lower than it should 100% of the time.