Conanthewarrior

Hi everyone, I was having an issue with my Hotcig DX200 DNA200 not working with temp protection with my OBS Crius tank. I rebuilt the coils today, a simple SS316L 2MM ID 8 wrap dual coil setup which came out at 0.24 Ohms. I realised when I went to rebuild the post screw could be turned easily with my finger, so the small blue screwdriver that comes with the tank is not enough to fully tighten the post down for a solid connection to read resistance. I used a larger screwdriver and really tightened the screws fully- now in atomizer anylyzer the resistance is only fluctuating a tiny bit on the last digit every now and then, it was a lot faster and more change when the screws were not fully tightened. I made sure the coils had no hotspots and were glowing from the inside out by using Watt mode instead of TC, giving them a strum after each pulse then they was heating as they should. Now TC is working perfectly, I have the power set at 40W for the dual coils with the temp protection at 220C- this is giving a perfect vape, with the temp protection working as it should and reducing power to keep from going over this temperature. So make sure you have a fully tightened connection, as it seems a slightly loose post screw was making the resistance jump up and down and not allow the board to recognise the correct rise in resistance to do its thing.

I built another dual coil 26G SS316L 8 Wrap build coming in at 0.24, and temperature control is working fine again. I found that the little blue screwdriver may not have been enough to tighten down the coils so used a bigger screwdriver and really tightened the post screws so the wires are properly connected, and this seems to have solved the issue. I believe I may not have tightened the screws enough the previous time giving inconsistent resistance readings, but with a stronger connection the resistance is not fluctuating as much and SS316L temp protection is working as it should.

I see, so if it is stable why am I being kicked out of TC mode? I will try another build in it today as I am rebuilding a few RTA's and RDA's today, and see if it starts working again.

The number does decrease as it gets more snug then settles at 0.29. When I run atomiser analyzer only the final digit is shifting when the mod is at rest by a couple of numbers.

It seems like it must be, it is fluctuating from 0.29 to 0.34 when I turn the atomiser a bit as atomizer analyzer tells you to do, is this likely the coil or the RTA?

Hello everyone, for the past few days I have been using an OBS Crius RTA with a dual coil, 10 wrap 2MM ID 26G SS316L build coming in at around 0.29 Ohms. TC/Temp protection was working until just now, when the mod displayed the resistance as 0.32 instead of 0.29 Ohms. I took off the RTA, let it cool, and put it back on and it is again reading at 0.29 Ohms, however where it shows the temperature on screen 3 small lines like this --- come up instead of the temperature rising for the temp protection to kick in. What could have stopped temp protection working, as I was really enjoying the vape I was getting at 40W with the temp set at 240C. EDIT: I have connected to Escribe, and live Ohms the reading is rising as the coil heats and TC is working sometimes but not others, it was working constantly before.

Yes the mods battery settings in Escribe are set to that for dual 18650 use. The mod turns on with batteries in, but just shows an empty battery and will not fire a tank or RDA.

OK the soldering inside looks OK, so I am not sure what to check next?

OK, I will take the mod apart and check the solder joints where they are connected- what exactly am I looking for here? Also I learnt something new, I never knew that connector was called a JST connector so thank you.

Hello everyone, I have both a hotcig DX200 V1 and also the V2. The V2 is working fine with the dual 18650 battery compartment converter, but the V1 powers on, but shows the battery as completely empty. If I connect the V1 to Escribe in device monitor, it shows each cell as 0.00 volts, which I know is not true as it is working fine on the V2 mod. The way these packs attach is with two main pins that are male on the mod, then underneath is the balance connector which is male on the mod. I am wondering if the balance connector is not connecting properly and this is what is giving the error, so any help would be much appreciated as I would like to be able to use the V1 as well as the V2.

Thanks mate, me too. Something so simple as well.

Update- this was me being a complete idiot. I received an Istick Pico today with Arctic fox custom firmware pre installed by the previous owner, but it was like new and boxed. I tried the included cable and all of my mods are now being recognised by Escribe- the three other cables I was using must have only been for power and not data transmission. So it is solved, it was all of the cables that were the issue.

OK, I managed to fix this, another forum member advised me to try a small squirt of WD40. I used the little red plastic tube/straw that comes with it and applied a tiny spray to the buttons, pressed the button a few times and it is now not stuck. I cleaned off the WD40 thoroughly and the mod is working great with a dual coil Ti 01 build.

Hello everyone, I have not been active for around about 4 years on forums and vaping due to mental health issues, that are now resolved with treatment. Due to this my collection of 45 mods was just left to sit where they were, also the same for my tanks and RDA's. Earlier I wanted to do some building, so tried an RDA, I couldn't get the top off it was stuck, so tried another, then another, all stuck from sitting there unused apart from 2. Then I decided to build a TC build for the Hotcig DX200 V2 DNA200, things were going great in single coil mode but I wanted to try dual coils so wrapped them, installed them on the RDA, then went to quickly glow them to make sure they was heating evenly. I pressed the right button to increase the power, and let go, and the power kept going up. I have pressed the button hundreds of times hoping it will pop back up, I have even tried a flathead screwdriver against the side to pry it but this isn't working. Is there anything else I can try before fully dismantling the mod to sort out the fire button, as that is a real last resort. Thank you all, Conan.

Unfortunately I don't have a voltage meter, but when I just tried the DX200 V2 it is working as it should. It must be the V1 that is set up for a 3S Li-Po, as this is the one that was showing an empty battery but powering on. Would the mod expecting 11.1 volts nominal and only receiving 7.4V nominal cause the error of the empty battery symbol? Unfortunately the Li-Po that connects to the mod has died and I can't get any of my mods to work with Escribe at the moment, I was going to change the V1 to run in dual 18650 mode too so I can use it. I haven't been active in around 4 years on forums or keeping up with my mods due to mental health issues, so the Li-Po must have just died from being left for so long without use. I am now a lot better mentally and am getting back into using my mods in the collection- I have 45 mods, 12 are mechs but the rest regulated so have a lot of tanks and RDA's to build! I am just glad one of my DNA200's is now working as it should.