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Dampmaskin

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Posts posted by Dampmaskin

  1. Tiger wire, is that round wire and ribbon twisted together? Looking at some pictures, I'm just thinking that the ribbon deforms too much and too unpredictably, and I probably can't model it with any accuracy to speak of.

    There is no TCR value per se in the CSV file. There is a "TCR in vaping range" value in the left hand box in the Wire Wizard, though. If you want to input a single TCR value in EScribe instead of uploading the CSV, you can use that one.

  2. As far as I know, the 0.4 mm NiFe30 from StealthVape really is NiFe30. Rob got a huge batch of 0.4 mm NiFe30 custom manufactured.

    I am using it myself, and it works great for me.

    [quote]so the resistance has nothing to do with the TFR? so i dont even have to input a build? just pick the wire and download the tfr and it should be good?[/quote]
    As long as you use one single coil material, then yes, the build is irrelevant to the TCR. The build only affects the TCR if you mix two or more different materials in the same coil/build.

  3. I am vaping on the 0.40 mm NiFe30 wire from StealthVape as we speak.

    In my DNA 200 mod, I use the CSV from the Wire Wizard for this wire.

    It works for me.

    The resistance in the calculator was tested by StealthVape and fine tuned accordingly. I do get slightly higher resistance when I build with the wire, but that could be my atomizer. In any case, the resistance does not affect the TFR curve or vice versa.

  4. I can't answer your question, but personally I doubt it will happen.

    What you could do is to adjust the watts, fire the mod, and read the volts off of the screen. Then you adjust up or down depending on what voltage you want. Repeat until you're where you want to be. Or fire the mod, read the resistance, plug it into some ohm's law calculator together with your prefered voltage, to figure out what the power setting needs to be.

    What I'll recommend is to simply get used to adjusting the power. You'll become comfortable with it in no time, and I promise you, you won't regret it.

  5. Mad Scientist said:

    I have a new mantra. Increasing applied power increases temperature; increasing temp setting increases applied power lol. I think it's silly that an unfortunate comment in a pbusardo interview has "evolved" into a religious doctrine. ;) 



    I fully agree.

    Also, because I adjust the temperature more often than I adjust the power, +1 to the option of switching them around in the interface.
  6. I tried twisting 28ga Kanthal with 28ga Ni200. It tasted terrible. I don't know why, but I'm guessing it was because I twisted it too tightly so the Ni200 stretched and developed hotspots. Also, the Kanthal didn't have any heat flux to speak of; the Ni200 did all the work.

    Then I tried claptoning 30ga Ni200 around some 26-ish gauge Kanhtal. Again, the current mostly flowed through the Ni200, leading to poor performance. I've since learnt that you should make sure most of the heat is produced in the core of the clapton.

    I did this before I made the Wire Wizard, so I had no idea what I was doing at the time. I haven't gotten around to experimenting much with hybrid coils since. Yes, I'm aware that's kind of ironic considering how much time I've spent making a tool for calculating them... :D

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