turbocad6
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Posts posted by turbocad6
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ah nick sorry man I just sent my last completed 75c out today before thinking of doing this test and as you know this test don't work unless there is a battery connected to the board, I'll have another in a couple of days and confirm but I'm assuming what you are saying is probably the issue here, I'll confirm as soon as I have a chance
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ok I will try that later when I am in the shop, thank you
I'm going to take that video down now it was really just for you to see
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hey nick ok here is what is happening. the settings file I am uploading is basically the default skin with default settings for the most part but with the thermals and mod resistance set and a few materials added. the coil is 1.7ohm kanthal
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sure nick in a little while I will show you what I am seeing here and my settings, i'll make a video for you, not sure if I can upload a video direct here or not but if not then I'll link a quick youtube video for you
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yes sorry right after replying to you I ran down to the shop and didn't see this again until now.
firmware is 1_1_SP21_1.SW-service [7A9D] and escribe is Version: 2.0 SP3.1
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says mod did not fire or something to that effect and then flashes the red screen
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hey guys just wanted to bring this to your attention, I use the production utility when I run a batch of mods and I really love how easy it makes it to update, program and test fire a lot of mods in quick succession. I just finished a mixed batch of 75's and 75C's and the 75C does not fire with the production utility in the latest 2.0 version, it fails the test with a red screen but then if I press the fire button 5X the mod does then indeed fire. tried it on multiple mods all with the same results, 75's all fire no problem as they always have, but the 75C's all fail the test every time.
def not a huge deal it's easy enough to just manually fire each one after and manually confirm the ohms fall within the target range, but just thought I'd bring this to your attention, thanks
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by that logic GM should only make a Cadillac, it gives you everything you can get in a chevy and then some, so why make different levels of vehicles? I really think you are over simplifying things a bit and I think you just believe it's all a marketing scheme but that's not the case here at all... different layouts for different purposes with each one doing what they are designed to do... "jack of all trades master of none" comes to mind... each board is that much better when it's designed for a certain task, there is a huge difference between 3.7v input and 11.1V input and trying to design one chip to do it all will mean that it will be more inefficient in some areas o course... different tools for different jobs...
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the dna 250 is just an updated 200, and the 75 is a completely different chip even though it shares the same footprint and looks similar it's not. I'm sure what you are saying may be possible BUT the cost of a board that can do it all like that would put it over the cost of even the top of the line dna250, why make the cheapest board now become the most expensive board for those that just want a 75 single cell device? just not cost effective even if it was very possible to do
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clock doesn't need battery power I think, there must be an on board power source, the date and time were set on mine already unless it just gets it through escribe?
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vapingbad are the up/down/select buttons re-mapable to select which one will be up, down and select, or can only up and down be switched?
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yes the chances of an amateur being able to replace this on there own are very slim, I won't say impossible but realistically it almost may as well be, even for someone with a fair amount of soldering capability this is no easy task and the likelihood of ruining something on your first attempt is pretty high even with some experience and the correct equipment
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yeah think rom VS ram... it would be cool if it did remember with a power loss, I agree, but it doesn't and all I'm saying here is this is just normal behavior for the dNA's
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the dna's have no on board memory to retain the stored cold resistance value so this is normal behavior of all of them really, just stick the new cell in and then wait about 5 minutes before firing it.... if you can't go 5 minutes without a vape then you should have 2 mods at any given time anyway really
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yeah that's not something that is on the board by default so not programable, was added by the modder
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a small piece of double sided tape attaching the screen to the board works well and if you don't press it hard you can reposition it till it's just right then press it a bit more, I then lock it in place with a dab of hot glue on each side before peeling the screen protective layer off
the funky shape of that opening pictured is because a milling bit will leave round corners, in order for the sharp square corners of the screen to sit into the opening these reliefs are used to allow the rounded corners to not interfere with the pointed corners of the screen -
yeah Rob, milled the brass myself
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dna250 dual 18650 squonker
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Rob_H said:
I did see that. Nice you were able to make it so small. Where are the buttons at? I see where the fire button is but what about the others?
sorry just noticed this... I actually didn't mount any up/down buttons in that prototype, I usually just set it and forget it so I didn't miss them all that much for testing, but I do have space to mount them either internal or external in that design -
greenj22 said:
I've even considered having a 4s balance lead wired up to the 60 for the USB, given the mod is easily accessible. Then wiring a male 4S tap to the USB. You could then get away without having to mount/cutout the USB in a mod, yet be able to have the USB/tap to quickly plug into the female tap wired to the board for escribe. This is a last resort/another option if you for your application the USB won't fit or you don't want to mount it. Keep in mind then you'd have the USB w/ tap to look after (not lose).
I considered the same but once you take into account that the usb module really doesn't take that much more space than a connector it's just easier to mount the usb and be done with it if at all possible -
the 30 was the last one to use a pot, everything past that requires pressing up and down simultaneously for menu operation so they did away with the pot hookup
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the dna60 will work fine without the usb, you could also temporarily connect it to upload and program it, then leave it stand alone. I think the small screens will be soldered on, the connector pitch is wrong for the zif sockets used in the detachable screens
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that' not necessarily true, I put 2 in some of my dna200 mods and sold them and I would'n be surprised if many other modders may have done the same, so when these boards do start coming they may be available from some us sellers
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bump
I trying to avoid doing any destructive testing but have no other way of knowing if the + & - input terminals to the usb charging port are protected from shorting in any way
Let's see your 75c's
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