decoy

ok did the hard wire test and nothing did the button clean and nothing works when simulate fire in escribe did service pack rollback and reinstalled both and still nothing sorry but I think something is not right somewhere

well all was working ok and then it just stopped firing ,it might pop up the check atty once after a reset for a split second but after that nothing,the up and down buttons work but not the fire any help would be nice

I feel yer pain been there and done that humph ud 316l gave me no end of problems so I used a place on the net called crazy wire and got some and that helped a lot strip down the dripper and make sure to give it a good clean this includes removing 510 pin ect (it its a clone could be some swarf in it) don't over tighten the clamps you could be nipping the wire spaced coils work better of the bat for tc but it using contact coils dry burn them like kanthal but don't let them get yellow just red so you get rid of hot spots hope that helps

if you haven't dry burned in watts mode to get rid of hot spots then that is the most likely cause pulse them on a low wattage and tweak the same as kanthal till you get good even glow don't blast the coils with high wattage and don't get them bright yellow more a dark red spaced coils don't need a dry burn to work in tc so more peps use that method I'm still learning how to get on with tc but that's half the fun

tbh ive had a lot more luck with spaced coils for tc till recently when I started dry burning ss and contact coils seem to work well most of the time if the tank/dripper will let me I nearly always use a fused Clapton as they just seem to work better than anything else ive tried (that I can make ) one think I have noticed is the ramp up time and the power needed to run ss is far less than kanthal cant stress how important a good tank is for tc, it its got a floating centre pin like the kanger sub tank it can cause lots of problems

just a thought a lot of people have reported that the therion bf has a leaky 510 and they have to wipe round the black plastic under the batt cover every so often if yours is doing the same the build up of juice in there will not be helping your ohm readings I really really wanted one of these as they a smexy looking mod(if that's possible) but I'm holding off till I hear more about the 510 it could be users using attys with wrong length 510 centre pin causing the problem but its still a new to the market so time will tell I still want one

I have an aria dna200 that bits of the dna200 chip fell off so I put a 250 chip in it the screen holder needed some of the legs trimming down as it was bending the board (a lot) luckily I noticed before fully tightening the mounting screws the screen holder uses the external button connection holes to locate it as well as several standoffs I had to trim several of the standoffs to get it to sit right defo extra lumps and bumps on dna250 lol hope that helps

they may be the same size boards but they defo not the same dna 250 has extra bits on the same side as the screen meaning some screen holders don't fit

mine has done the same I think its a heat sink as the board still works but the other heat sink is cracked but it still worked before I swapped it for a dna 250 keep us updated with what reply you get as I haven't bothered with a ticket thingy

ive got the same mod dead simple to get in to remove the 4 screws and the sleeve slides off but be careful as the batt likes to come with it slide it apart about 1/4 inch then slip your finger in under the 510 and tease the batt towards the chip whilst sliding the sleeve completely off once you have done it once it comes apart without probs mine also had the lose screw prob but a blob of locktight on top of each one seems to off helped