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balt

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  1. I always just mapped out my own cups using tfr and a thermocouple. It was like 12 bucks on Amazon and only took about 10 mins per cup. I never liked the TCR " work around trick" cause it was never accurate and temps would climb and be all over the place. I definitely don't think it's a paperweight. Those are the manufacturer instructions in the screenshot I posted And many people are having sucess with higher wattage. The device will stop adding wattage when it sees that it is at desired temp and u will only only "autofire" for about 30 seconds or so. Just make sure the resistance doesn't climb above .8. That's odd about your cup popping at .81 I always wattage cleaned to .9 and have only had one cup blow because I didn't let it cool down enough before my next wattage pulse Yes we tried that and it still wouldn't pass the tsm check because the cup takes longer than 2 seconds to heat up. Every crucible cup is different with different cold resistance (.43-.5) and different TCR values (160-200) it's not a really one size fits all material profike kind of thing. TFR instructions are to plug your device into the pc and view live data. Probe your cup with a thermocouple and wattage fire your device. Fire it until the thermocouple says it has reached 200 degrees and immietely stop. Read the resistance on the live data where the cup reached 200 degrees and write it down. Repeat step again but this time at 300 degrees. Repeat again every 100 degrees until 500. Wirte down these resistance points in a custom material profile and then add a "fake" resistance point around 190 degrees that is close to your cold resistance to fool the tsm check.
  2. The 200 degree point needs to be close to your room temp coefficient number. So the mod thinks it's at 200 degrees when it's only actually around 100 or so. That's why you had to do the cotton test and try with a couple different TCRs. But it looks like now they are just telling people to crank up the wattage
  3. This is what they are telling people to do now. I have been out the scene for a little while now I just use my custom profiles but every cup is different.
  4. So just went on the divine tribe server and it looks like they aren't even using this workaround anymore it used to look like this for the tcr profiles. You would creat a tcr profiles bottom right corner for temp coefficient. 180tcr would be 0.00180, 200tcr would be 0.00200. And them you just add a point around 200degrees that is close to your room temo coefficient. But it looks like they aren't even doing that anymore. I'll post the new info they give out
  5. Like I said I've spent alot of time on this and the tcr workaround isn't really an accurate way to measure the temp. It'll just be somewhat close. The first way is the best way to be 100% sure the temp is what it says on the screen.
  6. So I've spent A-LOTTT of time on this i was actually the person who discovered the work around with some help from seedmass. To basically do it right for acurate tc control you need a thermalcouple probe. Put the prjbe in the cup and use wattage mode to measure the resistance of your cup every 100 degrees (100, 200, 300, etc.) All the way up to 500. Then you need to make a custom material profile and plot those resistance points on the material graph. You also need to make a fake resistance point somewhere close to 200f that is close to your cold resistance to fool the tsm check. After that all other accurate points will take over. That's the first and best option. You can also make a tcr profile and plot a fake resistance point (a resistance that is close to your cold resistance) somewhere around 200f. But you will need to still do the cotton test and try a couple different TCRs cause the tcr will change from your artic fox devices. If you go on the divine tribe discord server there are tcr profiles in the dna section with this workaround. But like I said u have to try a couple with the cotton test cause it'll be a different tcr then u are used to. The workaround is just making a fake resistance point close to 200 that is close to your cold resistance so the tsm check thinks that it has reached 200 degrees.
  7. I'm guessing your using a v5?
  8. First time poster and i am all self taught so bear with me. I'm using a wire coil embedded into a ceramic cup. Ive managed to make a accurate custom curve measuring res at different temps with an external probe every 100f, however currently running into issues showing live temp and passing the tsm check. From my understanding the device has to sense a rise to 200f in a certain amount of time for it to pass the tsm check however my material takes a little longer than the check so it kicks into wattage mode. I have manged to fake it by setting a fake res point near my cold res @200f with all accurate data points after that but this is just a work around. Is there anyway to extend the tsm check a little longer? perhaps a toggle when in session mode? my material take about 5 seconds to heat up to 200. Erstmaliges Poster und ich bin alles Autodidakt, also haben Sie Geduld mit mir. Ich verwende eine Drahtspule, die in einen Keramikbecher eingebettet ist. Ich habe es geschafft, mit einer externen Sonde eine genaue benutzerdefinierte Kurve zu erstellen, bei der die Auflösung bei verschiedenen Temperaturen gemessen wird. Derzeit treten jedoch Probleme auf, die die Live-Temperatur anzeigen und die TSM-Prüfung bestehen. Nach meinem Verständnis muss das Gerät in einer bestimmten Zeit einen Anstieg auf 200f erkennen, damit es die tsm-Prüfung besteht, aber mein Material dauert etwas länger als die Prüfung, sodass es in den Wattmodus wechselt. Ich habe es geschafft, es zu fälschen, indem ich einen falschen Auflösungspunkt in der Nähe meiner kalten Auflösung @ 200f mit allen genauen Datenpunkten danach gesetzt habe, aber das ist nur eine Problemumgehung. Gibt es trotzdem die Möglichkeit, den tsm-Check etwas länger zu verlängern? vielleicht ein Umschalter im Sitzungsmodus? Mein Material braucht etwa 5 Sekunden, um auf 200 aufzuheizen. Thank you
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