WuBai

Freedom, my friends, is never having to worry about a dry hit. I updated my firmware, rebuilt a coil and actually wicked it and juiced it first. Let it site overnight until the ohms were at a .37 and locked them. Then I set punch to 8, preheat to 100W with 1 second ramp time using the SSV .5 and we are in TC Titanium nirvana. I feel like I'm getting away with murder vaping this good. Freedom is never having to worry about a dry burnt hit. Thank you all for the help on this, titanium certainly is sensitive and I'm happy that after three days I got her firing just right!

One big issue could be that I am not wicking the coils before running the test. There is no cotton or juice in there. I'm not sure how much of a difference this will make but I suppose I will give it a try and find out.

Crazy part is that I've built hundreds and hundreds of coils. I do it by hand and even with Kanthal I was one of the crazies that twisted the wire straight with a drill and heated it first with a torch and used the drill and some pliers to make it super tight. Now I'm not saying this to say this type of stuff is crazy, hell there are some really CRAZY claptons that I wouldn't attempt, but I'm only saying this to say I'm fairly experienced with building these. I do agree that the difference between the hot and cold ohms is huge. I've built 6 coils on my Doge V2 and did one of the Veritas and one on my Plume Veil. Same results with a crazy rocky temp that flies up and down. Weird this is that if I set the temp to 290, it hits it instantly and bounces around it like crazy. If I set it to 350, same thing. Hits 350F instantly and bounces around. If I set it to 600, same thing. It instantly hits 600F and bounces around. This is impossible because it isn't even close to 600F and I can touch the coil about 2 seconds after I fire with my finger. I'm hopeful there will be a solution. I'm hoping John and chime in and see if he can diagnose. I'm getting some Ni200 wire arriving tomorrow and will report back once I build coils with that. The difference between cold and hot ohms just doesn't make any sense to me.

Man, you are really checking off all the boxes. I dug and dug and dug through so much information and I should have posted this a long time ago. If I just went with what you've written already I would have saved so much time! Yes, I did make sure that it was set to the correct profile. I even got the SSV logo on Profile 2 and the preheat power was set to 100W and the preheat time to 1 second and the punch at 5. Crazy thing is that on the Ni200 Triton the temperature starts off way lower than the maximum and rises in an arc as I would suspect it should. The power also tapers off in a reverse arc and everything is smooth. When I put the SSV Ti wire on it, the graph looks like a Richter scale showing a magnitude 9 earthquake. I've placed an order for some Ni200 wire that I can build on. If the issue still persists I will have to see about returning my mod and having them check the internal ground on the 510 connection to the battery. Sometimes they ground to the enclosure or sometimes the ground is just not connected properly and this looks like what I would suspect my issues are reflecting. If it wasn't for the Triton coil working I would be certain that the grounding was the issue. I've even cleaned the heck out of my Doge V2 and doubled back on the wires and tightened the connections. I even sanded the 510 base and the screws with 1000 grit sandpaper!

Another strange thing is that when I'm vaping on Ni200 Triton the watts start at around 40W (my setting) and drop down to around 26W before protection kicks in. On the Ti wire it is always in fractions of 1 watt like .2 watts and lower.

Thanks for the response. So I'm running 7 wraps on an 1/8 drill bit and getting .34 ohms cold. I'm running this on a Dove V2 with contacts really pressed down hard and making very firm contact both at the leads and at the 510. I also did dry burn this on very low settings and got in the dark. I've read almost every post on every forum and searched every iteration on Google about this issue that I could. So frustrating and there are others with exactly the same issue out there. I wonder if it is the LavaBox, but that is strange because it works on the Triton and the Ni200 coil in there.

I just received my LavaBox DNA200 and was thrilled until I discovered that the TC does not work properly. The Temperature Control limit hits instantly and I've tried it on several attys with no luck, both with touching and not touching coils. Same returns. I did try the Ni200 Triton coil and it worked smoothly and perfectly on the LavaBox, but switching to Ti the problems began. I've read online all about the 'its doing what its supposed to be doing' and yes I get that, but not the second you press the fire button. To me is seems that the resistance is really jumping quickly when I fire. I've check and check all my builds and everything is right. Either it is the software, the LavaBox 510 Ground being shoddy or the SSV Ti wire (I'm using the CSV) being problematic. Any advice would be appreciated. Below is a picture of two pulls. Power cuts off immediately and temp spikes and bounces. I know there are several people who are having this issue. This picture is with the Triton Ni200 which shows a smooth progression to the temp and the power gracefully swooping down. Exactly like I thought it should work. If you could help me solve this, you would be the vaping heroes of my life. In need of advice vaping friends.