Havoc340
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Posts posted by Havoc340
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I fixed it. Turns out it was an atty issue the whole time. I am using the zephyrus tank, and I didn't realize the pin was fully floating. I knew the tank was connecting at the 510, but didn't even think about the pin to coil side. Hopefully my headache can help someone else in this situation.
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Ok cool. Something funky is going on for sure but I have no way to really diagnose it. I have tried different builds but in temp control the hit is just inconsistent. If i pull the tank off and reconnect it, it will not fire for a minute. In escribe if i capture the screen it just says temp protection. That's the only one I can ever capture.
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Thanks! I'm sure I could get away with an antioxidant grease to combat the corrosion. At least that is the plan.
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Ok. So before I get any deeper, I'm going to rebuild with a fresh ti build. Side question.. Is it typical that if you set the temp at say 400, reboot the device, it will then go to the profiles default? I never intentionally set it at 530, but that is where it's set. If i re set it at 400, then unplug all power, it re defaults to 530.
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The coil resistance has been consistent evey time I put my tank back on. I have a profile set for it, and occasionally switch it out to my rda and it's profile if that makes sense.
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I've been running these TI coils for about a week now and I noticed that I had to keep turning the temp up to get my warm vape. Im normally at about 400, and over the week I ended up at 500. Didn't change anything else. The resting ohms have been a consistent .13. Today I started having screen issues (crimped cable, my fault) and I unplugged the battery. When I plugged it back in to see if the screen came alive (it didn't) and fired it, it immediately had more power and dry hit. It seems like it reset something and gave me my power back. I did notice that it arced when I reconnected, but didn't do it again when I did it the second time after complete disassembly. I wish I had more info. It was gradual enough that i thought it was the coil going ( I'm new to TI and TC) I know I'm on the latest firmware that escribe had available a week ago. I'm just curious if there could be a reason for it. Also maybe if someone else is noticing a similar thing, they may be able to get data before the reconnect.
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If i understand correctly the prototype case used the case as the 510 ground through the board. If using a 6061 (non cast) aluminum case, will there be any real benefit in using an external/traditional ground wire at the 510? Or is the board ground through the case sufficient for the capacity of the board?
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Ok cool. Was thinking in terms of "resolution" and wasn't sure if lower builds would equal more accuracy. Also, I'm good on the 200w. Played at 200w today on 3 nic, pretty sure I seen Jesus.
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Cool. I just didn't know if it worked any better at a certain range. Still trying to shake my old .5 ohm habits.
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I must be getting old. I cant figure out how to google anymore to get the info I need.
Im about to have a coil day, but I cannot figure out what kind of resistance I should be aiming for when building for temp control. Is there a sweet spot that works best? Is there a too low or too high margin? Does my target change according to the type of wire I'm using?
Ive got some titanium and some nickle to build with, also kanthal and nichrome. I'd just hate to start building some claptons or zippers when I dont know what my goal is.
Also can someone hook me up with some info as to where to go to find some more technical hybrid metal coil builds? (Kanthal/Titanium combo, Multi strand/Gauge nickle etc)
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A side note outside of all of the technical info, the DNA 200 has the built in charger. We all know this, but i think we are stuck in the battery swapping habit. I run my 200 at 60-90 watts all day on the turnigy 3s 1300mah lipo. I've only had one day where after 18 hours the battery got low. To avoid this, I just charge on the go. Plugging into a charger throughout the day (like in your car, at your desk, whenever you plug your phone in) will keep your mod very charged and it's not an inconvenience.
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I could, the only thing that sucks about that is not everyone can. It requires a hardware mod, where the technology already exists in the chip to do it on any atty/tank without any modification. Sure it's a gimmick but it's a cool one.
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Oh and my use is just out of being too lazy to hit the button lol. Nothing regarding preheating.
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Great minds think alike. You could reduce the temp to 90, or 20 deg over Ambient. This way it's not uncomfortable. Also have it be an unlockable profile through escribe. This way you could just turn it on and off by switching profiles on the go. Either way it's cool you've already went down that road.John said:We actually played with this!
What we were thinking of doing is having a button press "light" the ecig, holding it at 120 degrees or so. Then look for the temperature drop when you draw on it.
The only problem is it draws nontrivial power the whole time it is sitting in what I called the "smoulder" state and is uncomfortably warm. Preheat comes to temperature really quickly though, so we dropped this idea. We were mostly using it to come to temperature faster.
Trying to do it off ambient temperature wouldn't be reliable, because if the air is 70 degrees and the mod is 70 degrees, you can pull air across it all day and not change the temperature. (well, you could set it up to cool with clever use of fluid mechanics, but you don't want to draw that hard) -
I ran a set of ti coils in my Zephyrus. It was like I've never vaped before. It was a .09 dual build. I pulled it to play with nickle but instantly regretting it.
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With the new temp control stuff, i had a potentially game changing idea. Constant temp monitoring. This could be relevant in an auto puff situation. Most mods are kept in pocket or in hand. So I'd venture to say that they are typically above room temp. So a hard pull should drop the temp of the coil abruptly. Especially if the mod is warmed up or has been used recently. Then after sensing temp drop, the mod fires until the temp senses an abrupt temp increase (the end of the pull). Auto firing may be an issue walking outside into the cold, but it should be very brief as he shutdown sequence should initiate pretty quickly. Its just an idea. Not sure of the sensitivity of the coil at room temp, or the kind of resolution you have available in that area but if made to work it would be a game changer.
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Thanks. I just don't want to be making an unsafe situation.
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Yeah, The thickness is my concern. So if they only swell to their environment, is it a big deal to constrict them and not give them any room to grow? These are the things that I cant google well. (end up getting tons of Liposuction results lol)
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Ok, Not specific to the dna200, but I am curious if there is some breathing room required for Lipo batteries to expand. My design has .050 clearance and im not sure if thats enough, or if its even an issue.
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I just had this same thought. Was about to make the post myself lol.
Balance charging not working?
in Batteries and Charging
Posted
Hi, I'm having an issue with 2 separate boxes. This is admittedly a bit of a crap show. The rundown. Box A had battery A installed. Everything was great for 3 months. Then I noticed I couldn't get a full charge anymore. In escribe I noticed that cell 3 only would charge up to 3.88v. I had a spare battery that I externally charged, dropped in battery b into the box and it developed the same symptom within 3 days. (Cell 3 won't charge above 3.88v) Thinking it may be a board issue, I built box b with a new board and put battery a in it, expecting the balance charging to bring that cell up. Now both box a and b look identical in escribe. Charge current drops to 0, Cell1 4.2v Cell2 4.2v Cell3 3.88v If I run the box, all cells drain equally. And they all come back to this situation when the box stops charging. I'm pretty sure that when 2 cells reach 4.2v it stops the charging. And the battery meter on the screen displays the % of the lowest cell. So i never get above 60% charge on screen. Yes my w/hr has been set for my battery. Is there any way for me to charge only one cell in the box? The boxes are non serviceable and I'll need to break them to get them apart. Its just odd to me that id have 2 batteries fail the same exact way, and also 2 boards. But i have the same problem between 2 different mods.