monster92
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Posts posted by monster92
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Okay thanks!scoopy said:Yes
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What battery should I use in the solid works "shapeways" DNA200 case? Is it the same one on the evolve website?
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Yes correct. It even walks your through it. Just put in the Milliamps and 11.1 for a 3S lipo. Can you change the charge rate?
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So I've had my Hana v200 for about 3 days. Everything seems to be working good. The only thing I changed was under battery type in escribe I put in the correct type of WH for battery capacity. Let's hope they've fixed everything.
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Cause I mean technically you'd have to wait an hour to see it or would you only see it when you upload settings in escribe?
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John that would be perfect! I'd be completely happy with that. It doesn't need to turn completely off. Even just like a drop down tab next too secondary screen saying something like that. Cause I mean I showed it off today at my shop and I had to plug it in and hit upload settings just to show him. That would be awesome if you could add that in the next update.John said:Oh I get ya. Showing the startup screen completely makes sense as a reason to power it off.
But that would be much easier to add as an option in Escribe to just show the startup screen if activated after a certain amount of time, powered off or not.
We can make it show whatever screen whenever with minimal difficulty. -
Hey john the only way I can see having it completely turn off or even after a couple minutes would be cool is for people like me who have made coustom welcome screens or secondary sreens to see what they look like. Honestly the only time I see them is when I upload settings to the board. Not a huge deal but it would be pretty cool to show it off more. Just to compliment the chip more on what is possible.John said:Nope, that's due to the input capacitance. Happens just the same whether the board is on or off.
Or even if you just hook a pack directly to a capacitor. -
Just curious what's everyone's runtime on the Hana v200? I get about a day.
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Mike, pictures?(:MikeTheVapeDude said:I'm putting on my combat boots and going in. I'm going to take a drill bit and size it up to where it's just SLIGHTLY larger than the actual 510 inside the cup, gut the box, safely, and just drill RIGHT through this thing, the whole 510, threads and all, pin too, will be replaced by a hole. I am then going to take a FD V4 Low Profile short and slide it into this hole and secure it with a nut and loctite super glue, if I'm correct, the V4 LP Short is 1mm, the same size if not ever so slightly bigger than the space the 510 cup is, will flush fit down into it, and it's 22mm to 22mm. Then Rewire the 510, ground it out and.. yeah.
Anybody wanna stop me if this is a horrible idea? Or give me an alternative. I'm not doing it until someone who's had an up-close look at the guts of this box already tells me if it's possible, so.
EDIT: Took it apart, looks fairly simple. What is the 510 grounded to? -
On a full charge yes they should be at 4.2 per cell. Lipo batteries also need a break in process. It's not needed really but to get more runtime and lifespan out of it, it is recommended to "break them in" meaning for the first few cycles have it around 50ish watts. Meaning not to over draw the discharge. After 2 or 3 cycles it should be good.MikeTheVapeDude said:I have yet to give it a full charge. Working on it right now. But cell #1 is like .03 lower than the other two which are the same voltage. Cell one is at 4.14 and two and three are at 4.17. This okay/normal? Will they all hit 4.2 at FC?
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John was right! Like always(; lol. Went into Escribe and turned temperature protected to "do not show" in the themes tab. Thank you John!
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Thanks John! So when I set it to do not show it'll keep it from throttling the wattage as well correct?John said:Temp protected message means it is throttling the wattage to keep the temperature under control. It isn't an error message.
That said, you can turn it off. Go into Escribe, on the Theme tab, next to the Temperature Protected message, you can change it to "Don't show" -
So mine seems to be working flawlessly except one thing... No matter what ni200 build I do it keeps saying temp protected. Made the 510 connection more solid and it keeps saying temp protected... What do I do...
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Wake-N-Vape said:
[QUOTE=Tomr1088]Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wire
I did not try to pull the whole assembly out when I had the case open since I did not remove the board. But, I do believe that it would allow you to slide out the 510 pin assembly with the circlip removed as long as the wire is flexible enough to slide it out without damaging the wire.[/QUOTE] One thing that I'm not happy about is no matter what atty I screw on it doesn't sit flush. I mean it's not that big of a deal but still. Pretty sure I know why. It's one of two things. Because of the size of the battery the 510 hits the battery. Or there's just so much solder over flow that it makes it difficult for the 510 to "spring". Or a mixture of both. -
Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wire [/QUOTE] Tmor more then likely because as stated when the c-clip wasn't in place the 510 was practically out. Take note there's probably a spring on top of it. Possibly...Tomr1088 said:[QUOTE=Wake-N-Vape]Monster, yep, so far my screen seems to be ok... I did not take the board screws out to physically check it out, but I would guess that it is probably ok seeing the positive and negative leads are soldered to the board. Hopefully they started doing that after fixing the screen issues? But, I am definitely on the look out for any weird happenings with the screen.
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Well said John! I use to work in the RC hobby Industry and that's exactly how it works! Well said!!!
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Only time will tell...
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Wake-N-Vape yup mine looked the same except for the c-clip. I'll be on watch for this to happen. I just wish they used a regular 510 so I could swap it out lol. Did your screen seem to be okay?
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As far as the sloder job goes. It sucks. They did a horrible job with the 510.Tomr1088 said:Exactly what mine looked like. I'm afraid about messing with it. I put my bullet connectors for battery but I think from moving the board a lot fixing the screen and whatnot it's making my resistance readings go nuts. Prob cause the wire is so stiff to the 510
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Hey john! Just got mine in the mail. It seems as if they're soldering on the battery connection now. The screen was just fine so they fixed that on mine. As for the 510 it looks like they didn't tin the wire before sliding it in. As you can see. One last thing, when I screw on an atty it is extremely tight.John said:A stuck battery wouldn't make it read too low... bad connections should always be too much resistance. Is there maybe a stray wire from the positive output lead that didn't make it into the center pin's solder cup and is periodically shorting to other things?
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No worries john! Hope you had a good mini vacation!(: I get my Hana v200 today any minute haha. I'll open it up john and take some pictures for you. Anything specific you'd like up close of the device?John said:Sorry, I just got back from being out two days (Yesterday was my anniversary)
The solder joints that seems to just stick out of the connector, can someone get me a picture? It sounds like a cold joint, or not pre-tinning the wire, or no flux. That could cause a bad connection, and the great downfall of all TCR based temperature controlled mods is bad connections.
Talking to Hana, it seems like they're improving the build with every batch, so that's promising unless you end up with one from an early batch that's acting up.
And I can trade dead ones for reference designs like I offered in another thread. Working my way through the forums now, then I'll take care of the PMs.
For the guy who is getting unsteady cell readings, can you measure the cells directly with a multimeter to see if it is the pack, the board or the connections? Might be worth re-seating the main battery connector too in case it just melted out of making good contact due to heat. -
KTMRider said:
[QUOTE=monster92]Well with all these Hana v200 issues I'm worried mine will be the same... Mine will be in tomorrow. I'll take it apart and have a look and I'll get back tomorrow. John do you have any information about this?
The only real issue is the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. Everything else is just us nitpicking at what we would've done better. The mod is the perfect size for me and the 950mah lipo lasts a day for me so I'm happy with it.
[/QUOTE] If the fire button sounds different from the rest I should probably take it apart right? -
[/QUOTE]
The only real issue is the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. Everything else is just us nitpicking at what we would've done better. The mod is the perfect size for me and the 950mah lipo lasts a day for me so I'm happy with it.
[/QUOTE] I know but with us paying $200 for a mod you'd think it wouldn't be this bad. Anyways, I should at least take it apart to make sure the ribbon cable isn't pinched? Or jut listen to the sounds of the button clicks and if the fire button sounds different then take it apart? -
Well with all these Hana v200 issues I'm worried mine will be the same... Mine will be in tomorrow. I'll take it apart and have a look and I'll get back tomorrow. John do you have any information about this?
Reference case battery
in Batteries and Charging
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