Jump to content

augtism

Members
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Posts posted by augtism

  1. Mine fluctuates with Crown SS using wattage mode. When I watch Pbusardo's videos on youtube, if I remember correctly he said in escribe on the Mod tab, under Electrical, in Ohms lock range, change it to 100% instead of 25% and it shouldn't fluctuate anymore. Idk if it's a good idea or not. You should google it or watch his video

    I now use a custom profile with my Crown in TC with SS. Ever since, my ohms never fluctuate and it's not even locked. My ohms locked range is still the default at 25%

  2. Jaquith said:

    [QUOTE=Longy01]For a few days now i've been playing around with the stock Crown ss coils in TC. I also was using the 304ss curve from wire wizard. At first, I thought it was fine, even though it was no where near as accurate as when I build with NiFe 30. Returned the Crown tank back to wattage for now.

    In the future I may invest in a spool of SS and experiment with a few builds, but it will take something special, if it's to replace my beloved NiFe. I do think SS has it's place in TC down the line, I just don't think we are quite there yet.



    I use this CVS file for the Crown SS http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ud-ss316ldjaquithv3 The Crown use some "Grade D SS316L" whatever that is!? In addition, I disable the Preheat; 'tip' I'd recommend that you try is to turn-off Preheat using SS, other wire no, but SS .. I'd certainly try it; (1,1,0):
    PHO.jpg  

    Let me know. I also read here about TCR's, on the Crown 0.00097 is what I've used with minor tweaks. SS for 'TC' is a pain, Titanium Grade 1 by far is my preference. [/QUOTE]



    Wow works flawlessly. Never vaped in TC with ss crown coil until now. Thank you!
  3. shamelin73 said:

    great vids

    Thank you for sharing.

    How ever one thing that was mentioned a few replies back as the mods resistance.  Mine is set to 0.  Does anyone know what it is supposed to be set for the HCigar VT200?



    mine is 0 also. anyone know what it should be?
  4. Jaquith said:

    No. Fully charge, Update the battery profile information and tweak settings as you want, and the vape as normal (disconnected from your PC) until the battery is fully drained. I do this with all my DNA 200's and it seems to pay off.



    You got it. I had the batt cell 1, 2 and 3. It was 4.20,4.20, 4.19... after a few minutes the 3rd cell went to 4.20, but then the second cell went to 4.21

    then I changed fields to battery charge %, battery charge Wh, Battery pack. results: 100%, 8.99, 12.6v

    and I haven't loaded the CSV profile yet

    edit: now the CSV file is loaded. vaping heaven
  5. Jaquith said:

    The Wh is only part of the equation, sort of like X + Y + Z but only having X. 

    According to the OP of the following file:

    Wh = 11.09
    Battery Profile (CSV) http://www.filedropper.com/hcigarvt200battery
    Cutoff (V) = 3.09




    Thanks for converting that so quickly. I presume I just click "Load CSV" then click Upload Settings To Device. Disconnect. Not doing this yet btw
  6. Jaquith said:

    If the tank has an RBA with two post, then 4 x 1' of Kanthal like rabbit ears antenna. Otherwise, I saw this thread with an 11 Wh and 3.1V cutoff https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66238-topic/ you'll have to convert the .TXT to a .CSV file by importing into Excel. If it's a problem send me a PM and I'll convert it for you tomorrow. I'm on my phone .. hence the frequency of typos from autocorrect.



    Yea could you convert it, I appreciate it :D

    what is the difference between me manually putting in 11Wh in escribe and importing this csv file?
  7. Jaquith said:

    When a battery is 'rated' it's with some 0.5A discharge until the battery reaches its cutoff voltage. A DNA 200 should be tested with a 10A discharge and with stable power delivery. So premature cutoff combined with some inefficiency in the form of heat from higher Amperage draws. People get hung up with Rated, hook it up to a flashlight and I'm sure you'll get 1300 mAh. Yep, I sure would run the Battery Analyzer at 40W or whatever wattage you use on average. Considering the history, I would change the Charging screen to show Cell 1, Cell 2 and Cell 3 with the recharging screen to 50%. An unbalanced battery can cause all sorts of problems. So the first thing I'd do after recharging is to put a Mod and using the Monitor watch all cells. The Battery Analyzer takes a while so fun for the weekend, the pay off is having a Mod set up properly. Frankly, I'd also run the Case Analyzer which takes a really long time. Lastly, either solder an old Atty or find some tests that others have run for the Mod's Resistance. Good luck! :-)



    I don't have a resistor or anything to test it. Just my Hcigar, tank, and escribe is all I have
  8. Thanks guys. I have it now. It's charging atm. I have not hooked it up to escribe yet. Letting it charge. But my previous Hcigar said 9 in the watt hours and 3.09v was the soft cell cut off and the charging mode was on Maximize Puffs. I left it as it is, because I wasn't sure what to put in the Wh. I checked online a lot. I find mixed opinions. Some say put 14.43 in the Wh, others say it's not actually 1300mah lipo it's a 1000mah lipo, so put 11.1Wh instead of 14.43. So I just kept mine at the default. Battery wasn't terrible at 9Wh. About 7 hours of moderate vaping. I just want to avoid this thing failing again. I should run the battery analyzer

  9. Jaquith said:



    Ah Gotcha. That's a damn high failure rate, don't get me wrong 'anything' can fail. Hmm maybe a bad batch, I'd wait until your shop gets a new shipment then try a new VT200 OR get a refund if possible and buy some other Mod.




    I asked they are letting me get a new one! It's my second replacement. And It's been well over a month, so that's crazy. These guys have a lifetime customer right here. I can't help but feel bad lol If you ever hear of NiceCloud shop there...awesome people.

    Picking up my new Hcigar in about an hour. I have to drive at the store furthest away this time haha oh well
  10. Jalcide said:

    Crazy idea, if you can afford it: double down, get two.

    You obviously wanted the VT200 before the SHTF, so get two of them.

    One is bound to work. If the other fails, you RMA it until it works, and you still have one to vape on.

    End of the day, you now have failure-proofed yourself should this ever happen again (you'll have one to use, while one is being fixed).

    And, you now have two of the thing you wanted most.

    :D
    Finally, in the future, if the units ever become discontinued and/or not available because HCigar disappears, FDA deeming regulations, etc., you'll have two of the same device to swap parts between to help get through the vapocalypse.



    Yeah I can't afford that. I asked and he's letting me get a new one!
  11. WranglerJackson said:

    I believe that the problem is not the DNA 200, its the company that manufactured the mod. If you have had 2 on the same mod and both failed, that doesnt mean its the chip. Honestly, i would try to get your money back from wherever you got the mod from and buy a realaux dna200. the one i have is flawless. its the best mod i have ever had. or just get another brand mod with a dna chip, like the vapor shark. OR watch pbusardo's dna 200 round up for a better idea of all the dna 200 mods on the market right now.



    I think you are right. It's Hcigar. I think it's their batteries, but I speculate. Good news, they are giving me a new Hcigar, because I asked. So happy. Heading over there soon.
  12. dc601 said:

    Yep, ask him about replacing it one more time.  If not RMA it then to Evolv and see if they will help ya out if HCigar won't warranty it. Don't recall you saying what failed in your HCigars.



    First one wouldn't charge anymore. Once it died, it never came on again. They replaced it with a new one. It randomly shut completely off one day. I plugged the charger in. Nothing, but a noise. A weird clickey noise came from the mod. Like a fast heartbeat. The screen didn't come on. I was nervous to even keep it on the charger. After some time on the charger it eventually came to life. It was really warm. Now it gets very warm when it charges. Also gets very warm when I used it. It got my tank very hot also, so I completely stopped using it. It died very fast while idle. Even when I didn't use it, it would die in about 90 minutes.
×
×
  • Create New...