JaySoCal
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Posts posted by JaySoCal
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Don't give up I love the chip. I wish all mine where the same problem so I could find the root cause but one day it will be problem free.
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One quick way I have found if my atty falls out of temp control is vape it in non tc 2 to 3 puffs. Remove the atty so resistance shows 0 on the mod. Suck through it a few times to cool coil. Then reattach atty select old coil then it jumps back in temp control. Just make shure you don't select new coil resistance will be wrong if it goes into temp control and can make it harder to get it to go into temp control
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I have had 3 boards fail but all diffrent first one dead when I got it second fuse 3rd warranty service.
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Know how u all feel lol. Bought my board in august dead on arrival. So after trying to trouble shoot it via email got a rma got it back first part of September. Worked great till October fuse blew. Board 3 got back working first part of November till the other day got the dreaded warranty service message.checked voltage of the battery and tried 2 other battery's. Love the dna 200 just hate the headache hopefully the next one is the one for my mod.
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One thing I have found for battery not fully charging is after it reaches 100% screen stays on but charge never resumes as voltage drops.
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Aww the dreaded dual coil temp control lol. Been doing alot of hybrid complex builds in dual using 24g grade 1 ti. Been loving it but using kanthal with temp control causes more issues with hot spots and by nature pulling heat out of the temp wires. Stability of atomizer is first and for most. They are all contact coils but due to the no dry burn getting hot spots out is hard normally 10 to 15w pulse but no glow. Then alot of times I'll vape them in non tc mode at 30 to 40 watts for a few days. Then they seem to run fine after I give them a little time to work themselves out. Leg length is probably the second most important part.
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I have 26g and 28g ni200 played with it for a while had a funny metalic taste when coil would run dry/temp protection. And have been loving 24g ti grade 1 spaced or complex builds it runs rock soild. Just have found with helix or staple builds run at a low wattage first due to the fact you can't dry burn and work hot spots or build a oxidation layer on the kanthal.
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Not the greatest pic but you'll get the idea
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Don't have a picture but using 24g ti helix single coil on a velocity clone temp control works awesome. It's (x2) 24g ti grade 1 (4x) .5 x.1 kanthal ribbon wrapped with 40g kanthal. Due to the amount of non tc metal don't really like to run over 350 degrees hard for temp control to catch it at the set temp due to it heating up the kanthal. When I first built it the chip had issues with it and I finally figured out it was due to hot spots in the coil and not being able to dry fire it. Just took a little time for that to work itself out just vapes it at 30 to 40 watts and made shure it stayed wet without t/c. Been working flawless for 2 weeks now .12 ohms stable and no ohms lock. Tons of flavor and vapor. I'll see if I can get a pic with my phone when I get home.
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As the cells get closer to full charge it starts to lower the amps if it's doing it when the battery not close to fully charged either a connection that's not fully conductive or the usb plug is lowering the amperage.
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Fda is being pushed into e cig regulation with a ridiculous grandfather date of 2007 so allmost all mods,tanks,attys we have grown to love or future new progress like the dna 200 and beyond may never agian see the light of day on b&m shelves or Internet stores. Please contact your representative in the Senate or congress and call the white house to help stop .this.copy and paste the link and save our vape . http://blog.casaa.org/2015/10/national-call-to-action-tell-white.html?m=1 If this does pass no new hardware we will be stuck with big tobaccos cigalikes hmmm wonder who is pushing this forward
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I think what is being asked here is if the resistance is locked the display next to the lock symbol is changing so what the op wants to know is that showing the locked ohms or the live ohms
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In another thread about temp control John or Brandon said it is .000000 or .00000000 did a quick search but couldn't find it might of been before the Korean spam invasion.
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Went through and checked all the solder joints and connections all appear to be soild. I use to assemble circuit boards for clean room controllers. They use them in clean room that they make micro chips. Was wondering though about board flex with only 3 mounting points maybe flexing someway and internally have a issues
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Wanted to start a thread to see if we can find a common reason why the fuse blows. Mine just popped last night after 2 weeks of enjoyment. So if it has happened to you post rda or tank you had coil build preheat punch and watts settings. Also what type of mod enclosure you have. And what you where doing at the time. Mine was a single spaced ni 200 clapton 26g/28g 6 wrap .05 ohms on a velocity clone. Pre-heat 150w punch 5 60w power. Mod enclosure is metal the board mount has .100" clearance around it and the mount holes are smaller than the ground pad on the board. The 510 has a ground wire to the board. Mod had been sitting for 20 mins picked it up it was asleep. Pushed fire button and took a drag pre heat was very weak. Went to take another drag pre heat still weak and half way through it popped the fuse. Plugged it into the wall charger came back on but the screen brightness was going bright dim bright dim. Plugged into EScribe and get a saw tooth pattern which I thought was odd. Atty works on other temp devices I have so it isn't the issue and nothing was inside the mod that hasn't been in there. Hope we can find a common thread with why it happens. Sorry for being long winded lol
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I have also noticed the inconsistent hits even on ni200 from what I have figured out so far with it is the coils haven't cooled now enough to notice the preheat from puff to puff. I'm running dual 26g 28g 6 wrap claptons in my velocity clone and my aromizer rdta. I find if I wait a little longer from drag to drag or turn the watts down and the temp up a little higher it becomes more consistent. I was running it at 450 degrees and 100 watts and it was the same every time. Then changed it to 480 degrees and 70 watts and was the same every puff. Just a new learning curve to search for your perfect vape
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Have you taken the board out of the mod and tried to plug it Into EScribe or hook the battery back up sounds like you have a short to ground
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I get both sides here. When I get a new juice I do adjust temp more to find what l like from it. I look at temp as a gross adjustment then I can change watts and pre heat as a fine adjustment to get a more complete flavor and vapor. Ramp the coil to fast might miss some of the flavor notes to slow you'll never get to the temp you want. But yes to change the temp when trying to find the sweet spot for build and juice can be a little annoying. Still love my 200 though
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Been loving my stream crave aromamizer with velocity style deck. Easy to build on great flavor and clouds
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I have a 2200 mah or 24.4 wh battery in mine it goes a full day no problem. Alot of the pre built mods went for small enclosures which forced small batteries. And correct me if I'm wrong the dna on 2 18650s is 133 watts so the same or close for the snow wolf. The reason for the pulsing is capacitors discharging and recharging to get the 200w.
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You can try to force a firmware update just select a firmware from the list and update you will get a error just keep clicking if not you will have to either contact vendor or evolv
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The local grocery store has them just as eyeglass repair kits
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More than likely they didn't set the battery size in escribe before shipping
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Pretty shure your right the box I made is just a hair over 106 over all and the 2200 mah battery I used was 104 over all had to trim the plastic to change the direction of the leads and gain more room than I thought
stay away from fat daddy vapes v5 510
in Connectors, Components, and Accessories
Posted
Stay away from fat daddy vapes 510. I know very bold and forward but let me explain. Been through 3 dna boards. The first one never came on so doubt it is related to this issue. The next 2 maybe. The ceramic insulator has no retention groove and will eventually move in the 510. The 2nd board worked great for a few weeks then restiance would fluctuate. Thought it was the clone rda so bought a authentic twisted mess rda. It was better but still some. Then it fried sent it in for warranty. 3rd board same thing but this time I got warranty service. Now on the 4th board was vaping on it a few weeks ago started do the same thing but was taking a vape and the check atomizer was displayed. So grabbed the atty and it was loose huh? Vaped it a little while longer was acting weird then check atomizer agian. But this time it is tight. Huh? Tale the back off the + wire is unsoldered form the 510. Huh?. I re-solder it to the 510 but still getting check atomizer weird right. So decide to push on the 510 with a screw driver it moved. Un soldered it and took the 510 out of the mod and the ceramic was cracked and allowed the positive pin to be close to the outside. Not a full short but close to it may of been intermittently allowing a short. Put a varitube v2 510 mod runs totally diffrent ohms don't jump feels way smoother.