p8ntballa9362
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Posts posted by p8ntballa9362
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I noticed mine did the same thing when trying to sort the 510 and find the mod resistance. However mine was now where near as big as this. On my VS it was the tiniest little flash/click. I chalked that up to refinement. This looks faulty to me.
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Everything is solid, I think the problem is that it fires immediately and heats up before it has the chance to set the resistance correctly. So it sets the resistance while you vape, but it sets it too high
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hey there ive been having this issue where i immediately try to take a puff before the mod has had a chance to wake up. on this first puff the mod seems to be fine. on the second one its on fire. i have a .08(.079) coil that hits perfect 99% of the time. but if i mis judge the time away from the mod and take a puff it will vape while its waking up but the resistance will be set to .10 . so obviously the next puff is rediculously hot and burnt to hell and back. any way to get around this? maybe reduce the wake up screen time? or eliminate them all together? i know that probably wont affect anything but im grasping for straws.
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you sir may have solved my problem... my ac works funny. it has a wide temp swing. if i have it set to 75 it will wait until it gets to 78+ to kick on then cool the apartment down to 70-72. and im sitting right under the vent when it kicks on. ill try running it when the ac is off. thanks.
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new case analyzer results with out the shark skin.... still seems really high for some reason. can any one confirm or quell my concerns on this?
cooling constant 877.17
heating constant 2307.72
usb charge delta temp 3.63f
19.13f/a -
Yup I'm using the very latest firmware. Manual download and update. You think it may be because of the shark skin? It is a decently thick silicone case
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Yeah I just upgraded to the 9/30/15 or w/e. Did a manual download and install
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like i said i have the vapor shark dna 200 with the sharkskin on it. the test was in a 72 degree room, and the mod was standing up right so as not to be thrown off by a cold glass table. the results i got are as follows. these seem to be really high from others that ive seen at/ around 500+/-.
cooling time constant : 3349.94s
heating time constant : 1470.61s
USB charge temp rise: 7.25 F
11.31 F/A
and then obviously -20/110 -
i recently noticed there was a month old update 9/30 that had not been applied yet. the latest im working with i believe is 8/21/ am i missing something? or is there a way to do it manually?
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Could be wrong but 8 wraps of 24g Ti seems like the resistance should be lower than that. If the device reads the resistance higher than it really is, it will allow it to get hotter than it should. I ran into this rebuilding subtank coils. Itd read. 4 when first hooked up but I'd pulse it really quick and then I'd lock it in at. 30 or. 27 or some shit. Might have just been the grommit on the coils or the ipv4. Still don't know
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jaysocal is the first person to understand my question. if i lock in a .3 ohm stainless steel coil at .300 shouldnt it stay locked and show that resistance the whole time? and fire under those parameters according to that particular locked in resistance? can i not lock it in to fire under the same settings regardless of the live ohms changing as the stainless steel heats up?
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ahhh, ok i get what you guys are saying. thats its basically impossible to keep the same parameters since ohms law says that the voltage/ power are directly affected by the resistance. i think my question has been answered. basically i wanted it to fire like a mech mod with kanthal but with titanium or stainless. basically be able to lock in a .3 ohm coil at 50w and 4.2v and have it fire under those parameters regardless of current resistance of that coil at any given temp. you guys are basically saying the DNA200 does not do that. and i am bringing prior YiHi knowledge to this platform,as this is my first evolv product.
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Basically like using Ti or SS on a mech mod, but instead of the resistance rising and lowering the power, lock the resistance in at .3 or w/e and keep it firing the same the whole time
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Yall are clearly missing what I'm trying to convey. OK say I want to use titanium or stainless in Kanthal [non temp] but I want the chip to apply power as if it's Kanthal and the resistance isn't really changing, [and I know it's inevitable that it will] thus keeping the wattage, volts, and current all the same regardless of the thermal coefficient of the coils, would atty/ resistance lock not accomplish this for me?
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I know the dna 200 will not change the physical properties of the wire what I'm asking is if I'm using a .3 ohm stainless coil, with out temp control on, shouldn't I be able to lock it in at .3, and get the same exact vape[ voltage, wattage, and current] instead of firing it and havin it jump to . 39 and cool down to. 35 thus giving me a different vape each time. E.g.-triton /crown stainless coils. And yes I know I can use ss316 for temp but it works better in Kanthal mode
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Right I understand they have different thermal coefficients.... But if I do the atty lock and lock the resistance it shouldn't jump up at all should it? If I have a. 3 ohm Ti coil and lock it, it should stay at. 3 right? Or does it lock it in the chop at. 3 and show me what the actual live ohms are at the time?
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Ok I've got a titanium coil and a ss316 coil that I like to run in regular non temp, Kanthal mode from time to time. In order to get the same hit every time, I try to lock the resistance so that it doesn't climb w/ temp and change the hit every time. So I lock it and yet after I take a hit I can see that the resistance has jumped up. Is it supposed to do this? If not what am I missing here?
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I love everything about my dna 200 except when I try to change from 40w to 60w I end up at 130 lol. [ok I'm exaggerating a little] but seriouslyseriously, people don't swing from 40w to140w very often, if at all. I'm not sure if this is possible, but maybe throw on an option to change the scroll speed. I don't mind waiting to get to 200w if I ever even go that high. Is this even possible? Thanks
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I'm pretty sure there's an option to do that somewhere. Seems like a pretty big/simple thing to leave out
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I've seen programs that basically auto write the code for you minus some stuff as you put the game together through a GUI. And you're right, there's too many variations in android devices to allow the device monitor and all that. But just an app that let's you edit certain values, such as preheat shouldn't be too farfetched.
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Even with the dingle wouldn't that require extra hardware not included on the chip? Just like today I had a titanium Clapton coil that I built last night. Didn't have time to change settings on my pc and would've given my left nut to change the preheat punch. I've got a note 4, cable, everything to do it aside from the app. On a side note, Im going to learn to code. If you develop something simple that people love you'll be rich over night. E.g. Flappy bird. If you're good you can make that game in 2 hrs
Ni80 for temp control?
in General Discussion
Posted
you can use stainless steel and proceed as normal like kanthal... the temp swing may be a bit larger than nickel or Ti but ive had no issues.... also, i do my titanium coils like kanthals. contact coils, i pulse at a low wattage just until i can tell they have no hot spots. and dont worry about the oxidation bull shit, TiO2 is used as food coloring and is generally safe for consumption. its the synthetic TiO2 NANOPARTICLES that are engineered in a lab that can cause irritation. Titanium is extremely compatible with the human body.... and just fyi, ive yet to have a titanium coil oxidize while pulsing it. i have seen a little bit while cleaning the coil off ( dry burn, and dunk under water) but that could be from the juice too. plus the water just washes it off. titanium is about as safe as it gets.