mandro
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Posts posted by mandro
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I built my 2s dna200 with the main reason being making a small device. I managed to cram everything into a 83 x 38.3 x 25.5 DIY enclosure. I don't go above 20 watts.
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@Wibberly, another fan of your work here. I love the way that you have achieved such a great looking mod from sheet material.
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I also messed mine up on first attempt, originally I bridge the two centre pins. I also wired the balance tap using turbo's idea with ground and pin 2/3 going directly to the board, leaving just pin 1 connecting to the battery, it's working great.
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Now that is machinist porn lol. What tools/machines did you use? Looks like every little detail finished to nth degree. Beautiful.[/QUOTE] Thanks Mad Scientist. My missus bought me a Proxxon micro mill last year for my birthday last year and it stopped working just after this birthday. I used this years birthday funds to buy a swig 1XL mill/drill and it's been great. I also use a dremel and needle files to finish off.[/QUOTE] Nice. I have to see if Santa might be willing to spring for something that expensive lol. Your experience shines through though. I am no expert machinist but I know enough to know that ain't easy.[/QUOTE] It seems as though it's expensive but I haven't bought a mod in over 2 years lolMad Scientist said:[QUOTE=mandro][QUOTE=Mad Scientist][QUOTE=mandro]Love the clear box
This one is 2s with 2 x 1000mah lipo's -
Now that is machinist porn lol. What tools/machines did you use? Looks like every little detail finished to nth degree. Beautiful.[/QUOTE] Thanks Mad Scientist. My missus bought me a Proxxon micro mill last year for my birthday last year and it stopped working just after this birthday. I used this years birthday funds to buy a swig 1XL mill/drill and it's been great. I also use a dremel and needle files to finish off.Mad Scientist said:[QUOTE=mandro]Love the clear box
This one is 2s with 2 x 1000mah lipo's -
Love the clear box
This one is 2s with 2 x 1000mah lipo's
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Thanks for the info turbo, I'll try this on my 2s build. I've thought about making a DNA200 BF box but I'm finding that I prefer my non regulated BF boxes to my DNA40's.
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I'm glad that you asked this question turbo. I was thinking along the same lines only yesterday. I'm building a 2s mod and thought of using the boards ground for balancing and then jumping 2/3 on the board leaving just 2 wires to be connected to the battery. If your idea works with the B+ and B- connected directly from the board, I would only need to connect 1 wire to the battery when using a 2s.
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An option for a single 18650 would be perfect. I also build squonk boxes but like you say, the DNA200 battery requirements even with 2s, mean the mod would be too big for my liking.
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Hi Podunk Steam. My one is the aluminium one (I wish the wooden one was mine too lol). It's got a 3s 1000 mah nano tech battery. I haven't run it down completely but it should take 3 hrs to fully charge it from empty, charging at 1amp.
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Thanks blueridgedog, Great idea turbocad, It's wired directly to the board ATM but I will try the JST plugs. The supplied tap connector was only about 2mm too big so I should be fine with the jst's
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Thank you. I made all the parts myself using a micro mill.soulseek said:mandro once again an awesome looking device, probably the best one. Are the parts for the case (and buttons) off the shelf or did you make them yourself? I was hoping to be able to buy them.
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This is my second DNA200 build.
It uses a 3s 1000mah nano tech battery. I had to remove the tap connector and wire it directly to the board because it wouldn't quite fit in.
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I've always cover the screen in my DNA builds. I started with Hammond boxes and used pieces cut from a CD case. These days I use 3mm aluminium enclosures so I cut a piece of 3 mm Perspex. Like blueridgedog, it's mainly for aesthetics, but it does keep the dust out.
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That's a great looking mod turbocad6, there's a lot of work gone into that. It's nice to see the many build pics and read about the build process.
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Thanks James, working fine now
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I managed to get mine in OK but I've built quite a few mods. I would imagine that it could cause problems for someone building their first mod. If the screen cut-out is not in the right place, there is a chance of pinching the ribbon.
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I've been reading about the few problems with pinched screen ribbons. I built my mod, using the on board switches and found that there wasn't much room for fitting the screen/ribbon between the switches. Would it be possible to have a slightly shorter ribbon for builds using the on board switches and if so, would a shorter ribbon still be able to fold back on itself ?
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Mine as been the same ever since the original download of escribe (7/1)
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I'm also having a similar live view display using windows vista.
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In my haste to finish, i cut the display cut-out too small on my DNA200.
The board as been performing so well, I thought that the display deserved to be seen so I re cut
the aperture lol
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I haven't looked into mitec switches but there is a minimum of 10mm space between the battery and the board. The main fire switch would need to go in front of the board because there isn't any space above or below.monster92 said:Is it possible mandro to have a mitec switch and tactile buttons in an enclosure that small?
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It's great to see some of the interesting designs being posted here. @ alee132, I totally agree with you regarding the performance of the DNA200. I've been using mine for a week now and it's been fantastic. I'm also going to build a second one, I also rushed the design of my first one so I'm building a smaller V2.
Let's see your 75's!
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