Chowderhead72

One more reason to buy American. You simply cannot argue with geography in such matters. Even with a six month warranty you still have to pay to get it there and pay to get it back in most cases which when dealing with China or Europe you're looking at $25-$50 each way if you want any sort of tracking and or insurance. In the US that number drops to $14.40 round trip worst case scenario.

After days of research and testing I have discovered my issue was related to the mod material. The mod in question has a 3d printed carbon fiber infused body. Evidently the carbon fiber turns Nylon into a semi-conductor. Not a lot of draw but still enough to drop 1% of a 20700 per hour. A secondary isolator between the contact and body alieviated the issue.

Anyone?

The Catfish Atty Mods DNA200 Squonker. Turnigy .95 Italian 8.5ml bottle Milled 6061 Carbon fiber all over Pics below are of the 3D printed proof. These are currently in production and should be available in anodized aluminum in late April.

I have heard the rumors of the DNA75 for months, now that HCigar has spilled the the beans is there any information available? Possible release date?

Thanks for the help but asked for upload help. I can't get any of my premade screens to UPLOAD. When I open them in notepad I get a huge page of jibberish. I'm using the themes posted in this forum. Fallout, starwars, and Mario brothers.

Is there a tutorial or even basic instructions on how to upload themes to the dna200 IN ENGLISH? My German just isn't what it would need to be to work with the countless files and videos that I have found.

figure this one out: I have discovered my board was overcharging the cells when I use my heavy duty 20awg charge only usb cable from amazon. I ran escribe on the troubled device while charging a brand new device I built yesterday and while I was reading the diagnostics on the affected device I looked up at the new device and now it says warranty service. I disconnected the hd usb cord and connected it to the cable I had been using before and all is fine. The hd usb cord managed to charge all the cells to 4.28v. I will not be using these hd cords any more but I would love to hear how this can happen. Theories?

I'm having a problem with the fire button on one of my bottom fed dna200s. The switch works about 60% of the time. What's weird is if I hold it down the screen will light up but it takes about 5-6 seconds to actually fire. I'm thinking the switches you have posted would give me a great reason to play with the fx-100. Do you have a link for the actual switches?

Mine has done the same thing. The device still works but shows the warranty service prompt when charging and firing. Any thoughts?

Thanks Mr Mundy. Coming from you that means a lot.

It's alive, it's alive... It works and just as John said the battery gauge isn't correct. All three cells are balanced at 4.2v and the gauge says 7/8th. I can live with that.

Yes I will be adding a jst connector (3s balancing port) in parallel to the battery and board. I will find out today if it actually works; it will, but the question is will it destroy the boards USB onboard charger.

Deans makes a 4s micro connector for just such an occasion. I will experiment. Mine will be behind the main cover. See pics on ecf. You know the spot..... Chowda... Btw: I charged my mod from 15% to full charge in 11 minutes today. With a $25 dollar charger and the battery was no more than 5 degrees above room temp. The Turnigy A-spec nanos are awesome!

Now you got it,... I have the same concerns. By the looks of it I will have to make something with epoxy poured into a mold around the connector. I have searched and most of the bulkhead connections are made for a console scenario with little concern for size. I want to make something with a deans micro 4sp type connector. Looks a lot more durable and certainly more likely to stand up to the 3a use. I have already ditched the jst 90 that comes with the dna200. Seems weak. I do have deans micros to play with. For a plug I would use the deans plug with the solder point cut off and isolated on the outside. Perhaps I would pot the plug in epoxy as well and have it finish flush with the outside of the mod itself so it looks unfinished and crappy without the plug installed and aesthetically pleasing with the plug installed. ETA: yes exactly like a docking port. I will work on it along with the all SS magnetic squonk bottle interface. No more brown squonk tubes! Run a wet pipe cleaner through it and even Pluid would be gone. That concept came from Mundy, I'm just running with it.