Swainesmatee
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Posts posted by Swainesmatee
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Your in luck! They have a 6 day warranty lol. Im not kidding.
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4 hours continuous?
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Toysoldiers said:
I purchased a vt200 and i have been having problems with my battery. I only use it at 20watts and at 0.8ohms. I don't get even more than 4hrs of using it. I'm using my Istick 50w and it lasts me for 2 days. Is it possible I get a new battery sent to me? I can't even take it out with me to use because it does not last long enough. I paid £120 just so I can use it for a few hours at home. Please advise me in further what to? I have updated the software and changed the battery part from 9 to 14.43. It has improved but it still seems to be draining pretty fast compared to my other mods. There are not much to set for the battery as I have done some research online. I would like to be able to take my vt200 out with me and vape. Is there a warranty exchange? I have read others has last longer than a day using higher watts and temp control. My cells fully charged are Cell 1 4.20 Cell 2 4.20 Cell 3 4.20 Pack 12.60. Can barely get through have day now still using 20w @ 0.8. If I was to use it at 50w it would die in a couple of hours. Can someone please help me.
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I was disappointed with the Battery sag issue. I ended up selling all my DNA 75 and right now my daily drivers are in SX mini ml that I got new for $110 and vaporshark DNA 133 box. I'm good till around 3 .5 volts on my SX mini ml before you start to notice any difference from Battery Sag. But honestly the vaporshark is foolproof it really is a great device I just wish it was 24 millimeter in this SX mini ml just looks and feels awesome in my hand with the hobo Drifter up top and a fused Clapton 26 Gage A1 inner core Rapton 40 gauge A1 outer with a 2.5 ID. I don't know if the firmware updates and help and I really wish I could buy DNA 75 device that I could use to its full potential but I'm apprehensive after owning the hcigar onesBillW50 said:Well the DNA75 mods are running full out. The DNA200 mod is just cruising. The DNA75 mods are probably running one 18650 or 26650, right? Pushing 75 watts out of virtually any 18650 or 26650 is really pushing the limits and the battery sag is probably great. Run the Device Manager again with the two DNA75 mods and monitor the battery voltage too and I bet the battery voltage takes a nose dive.
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How's your battery cap doing? I had bought and then all right when it first came out and I'm not sure if it was just mine but the battery cap was crap. An unsuspecting person could easily strippedd evenanse growing it much less threading it in. So I think I took maybe twenty seven hits before I put it up on eBay because I knew was a matter of time before I stripped it out and I'm ultra careful when I screw stuff and I always back it out and toilet seats and seriously I'm not sure if it's the material or tolerances but the battery cap on mine was a joke compared to the one on my vt75MegaVape said:VT75 Nano
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They say that the vaporshark DNA 200 has a user serviceable battery. Does that mean that you could have a spare battery and charge it with an RC charger and swap batteries like you would an 18 650
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I'm not trying to knock your device and this has nothing to do with your question but I just want to say I'm glad that I tried one of these devices out in person because it looks beautiful and so solid in the pictures and then when you feel it in your hand the buttons are mushy they don't line up well stick a little bit in some instances. Compared to the hcigar vt75 it feels so much less solid and that's not saying much considering its cigar doesn't put out the best devices in the world. All I know is that I put that money towards something else. The DNA 75 was not designed for two batteries otherwise it would have reverse polarity protection built-in. And when I saw the size of it it just made me wonder why would I have a device that size but I can get a hundred thirty-three or 200 Watts out of it.. It's a really good looking device in the pictures when you feel in person he really has a cheap plastic feel. I'm not surprised that DNA chip is not charging / discharging your cells evenly. And one brain fart you insert your batteries backwards and boom your device is dead. Good luck with everything I'm only writing this for anyone considering purchasing one that it definitely does not feel as good as it looks. You're great at taking fancy pictures
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I've used the copper calibration tool to set my vt75 and my vt75 Nano. Try setting the mod resistance to 0 uploading then measuring. It works. It's worked since the first firmware release.
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I literally every brand of 26 650 batteries and Dunham last longer than LG hg2, if they do it's not by far in the batteries sag is so bad I can get down to like 10 percent on a vtc 5 and only 50 on a 26650. I like my little vt75 nano.
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I got .006 on my vt75 nano using the copper calibration tool
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I figure the vtc4 might be a good choice because it has such a high amperage rating it won't heat up much and I just got the vt75 Nano. What would you guys recommend? Right now I have a .21 Kanthal coil I'm running around 45 - 50 Watts. IMR batteries has these authentic.
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u_U you have you export your profile before you make changes if you want to revert to normal or you will revert to the dna chip factory settigns not your mfg factory settings.
but contact them, vaporshark sent me over a file that had everything for the vapor shark 133 box, mod resistance, thermal properiteies, all the profile etc.. because my girl reset it thinking it would reset to factory specs. -
I sold it but I could have sworn my vt75 was able to display a charging current like the dna 200
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That would be a really badly made mod. Should be def under 0.01. I think mine was 0.0045DrewBurton50 said:
If you do this I would appreciate a share of your result as I don't own a soldering iron.
I am currently using 0.022 as the mod resistance which seems to work pretty well (the value given on djlsbvapes for the vt200
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I too owned and loved the vt200 before selling it to buy this device. I am loving this. The battery life is excellent. Just hope VapingwithTwisted420 didn't put too many people off this device when he did a full review with the battery door installed the wrong way round. -
http://smokefreemods.m.webs.com/site/wrap?url=http://smokefreemods.webs.com/apps/webstore/&back=http%3A%2F%2Fsmokefreemods.m.webs.com%2Fsite%2Fmobile%3Furl%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fsmokefreemods.webs.com%2F%26dm_package%3D1 That's what I use. Practically zero resistance. Cheap and works great.
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3.67 ohms...come on now.
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You can just change your settings so you never see this issue.
On my vt75 i realied that around 50% of many 26650s i can go till i get that warning but a threw a vtc5 in there and i can chain smoke it no heat vnting out the battery door holes.
Just set your alerts to like 1 second single flash in escribe -
I read you can use cellphone chargers and it'll automatically limit 1amp. I'm not looking to charge quicker but rather to use my ravpower 20500mah power bank. It has USb c, qc2.0 and some ismart I think 2.1amp. I know you can plug the quick charge into a non quick charge phone and the charger itself has built in stuff to adjust bit has anyone used a power bank. Other wise I have a 6000 mah 1amp Google fi power bank I can use. If I have a 1200mah lipos does that equivalent to the mah measurement on these powebabks meaning I'd get 4+charges out that 6000mah?
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This is just a wild guess because I'm new to DNA 200 as well but I do know that I read that 200 board was never designed to use to 18650 batteries it was designed for lipo so there's no reverse polarity protection. Is it possible you put your batteries in the wrong way because that will kill your mom and would explain why you're only getting power from USB cable
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Co0mrad said:
good afternoon . I have a problem: I charged from your computer are new hcigar vt133, updated firmware, disabled ... turned off the cable, decided to add the power, the unit began to smoke out of buttons to increase and decrease the power ... now only switched on usb cable and writes check battery ... Help mee ((please (
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Hey guys. Measured my mod resistance with the copper calibration pen and he came to 0.011 horror it was 0.0011one which would obviously be better honestly I don't remember I have to check later I'm pretty sure that it was 0.011 but I mean it is a pretty heavy metal mod. Really nice size. now has anyone else measure the mod resistance and also does anyone have any other describe settings for the battery or know if they said anything at all whatsoever in escribe? I know these are hobby devices but I wish that at least the mod settings came loaded. But is there anything I can't figure out on my own. I know I can run the battery analyzer, how does that work does it need an RDA with a coil on top and does it just drain from 100 to 0% and also I know I can run the case analyzer and it does something similar. Also I knew this going in I just didn't expect it to be as deep as it really is but the 510 is pretty deep on this thing my avocado just made contact I'd say I hit the positive in about 1 millimeter possibly one and a half millimeters before it starts compressing but the owner still read correctly.
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I do not loose the connection quickly when unscrewing and the resistance is stable albeit .2 not .15. is the extra .5 the atomizer?
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I googled boxer and within 3 minutes i decided id never purchase one. They are dicks. f*k them do a chargeback,
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dwcraig1 said:
If your only having a problem with this atty it probably has a bad connection due to the sliding positive pin and how strong the spring in the mods 510 is/isn't. I've had similar problems with my Kanger Subtank, on it I built up the end of the sliding positive pin with silver solder and put it back in upside down.
You might try just pushing the atty's positive pin inward prior to screwing it on the mod, that just might be enough.
Your right in many ways becuase on my sigelei 150tc ive noticed sometimes itd read 0.27 intead of 0.24 and i would take th eatty off and just push the pin in to make nbetter contact, or id pull the coil do a whole clean.
BUt this is a brand new coil, all 510 pins, insulators, coil base was cleaned with iso, i bottomed the 510 pin to the shoulder so the coil would make contact and push it out to the machined length it should be.
Whats odd is i see ethe right ohms for a second, i dont have anythign locked excep tthat its temp mode.
Of course i could lock it in 0.15 but what would be the purpose if its really thinkign its 0.23
Replacement vt200 battery door screws
in General Discussion
Posted
Anyone know a source or the specs on these? Cigreen used to sell the case. Is anyone else selling the case or a replacement screw pack or know the thread pitch?