PipSpawn
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Posts posted by PipSpawn
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retird said:
Can you post a screen shot of one of your profiles?
The wire profile?
Its in the OP, the bottom half of the pic attached is my wire profile. -
thanks for that tip dude.
I was finding the same issue. it was spikeing with my SS builds. set preheat time to 0 and lowered the watts by 10 and its a nice curve upto temp and holds there with a saturated wick, where as before it was all over the shop.
When the wick runs dry it starts to spike and trough but its 10x better now. -
been having the same sort of issue myself dude.
Has this happened since the update?
I have noticed my only custom profile doesn't fill the graph from the start, it starts after a little gap, i noticed yours don't either. (don't take that as the reason as i have asked the question myself)
Are they SteamEngine profiles?
Im just trying to put 2+2 together to see if i can find out why. -
Sorry if its bad of me to start a new thread about SS but i have had something odd happen.
Since i have done the recent update my SteamEngine CSV i made for my SS317L wire has stopped temp controlling.
I go to fire it and the temp on the screen just goes to 'OFF', if i'm not mistaken this means its running in wattage mode, Its not sensing a temp control setup.
Used to work fine......
It seems to now only behave on the preloaded 316 setting.
The even odder thing is the preloaded 316 appears to behave 10x better than my original CVS.
This is the wire i'm using
http://www.wireandstuff.co.uk/products/317L-Grade-Stainless-Steel-Wire---0.5mm--500-Micron---24-AWG----25-Metre-Spool-154.html
7 Spaced wraps on a duel coming out at 0.16ohm
Any ideas why this might be happening?
Have attached an image of both profiles, only thing i can see is my custom profile doesn't seem to start at the start of the graph. -
positive feedback:
Love the wire material tab area now, it makes it easyer for acutal wire setup, once the wire is setup you can just apply it to a profile. Thumbs up guys! -
dwcraig1 said:
I just did some measuring of the case near the 510. The top of the case is 2 mm thick, the recess is 1 mm deep, that only leaves 1 mm if those protrusions in the well and the rails on the inside where the 510 slides into place are removed. I was just inside mine a couple of days ago concerned with the 510' insulator. I suspect those rails that the 510 fits into are supported at the case above the fire button, I paid no attention to that when I was inside. Then is the battery cradle going to clear? While quit possible to do it looks challenging. I would like to change mine too but will wait till it's necessary I guess.
agreed mate, if the rails dont get in the way then the other thing i thought which would make it tight would be the batt tray.
By the looks of the photo above theres not much room between the current 510 and the chip/board by the +&- connections, Could cause an arch if its too close. -
Wow, That is tight.
Thanks for getting back to me, Shame as i think it would look the nuts with a Fat Daddy on it as well as improve the life of the 510.
Looks like its back to the drawing board of a DIY build complete lol -
Hi guys, First post Been looking at the 510 on my second hand dna200 weismec and it looks like the insulator ring might give way soon which will cause issue. Have been thinking about the fat daddy range. Anyone got a photo of the inside of the rolo where the 510 mounts for space inside the mod as I know fat daddy's sometimes need a lot of spare room Tia guys
Dna133 battery setup??
in Batteries and Charging
Posted
Herro guys. Wonder if you could help. Have just put together a 133. Slapped some fully charged 25r in it and the battery indicator only says 95% charged even though full. Have used the watts hour calculator and it's as it should be as per the 7.4v at 2500mah. Just will not show full. Any ideas or better to use the battery analyser?