jj6404
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Posts posted by jj6404
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Hey guys! I'm so glad to return to the DNA world after my Hcigar VT200 got stolen on a metro bus about 6 months ago. Finally got my hands on a black Therion 166 and loving it. Anyway, I grabbed a pair of the new VTC6s off orbtronic for this mod and am having some trouble with the battery settings. I got it set Lithium polymer, and 3000 mAh, 2 cell, 7.4 pack voltage in the watt-hour calc. But everytime I pop them in freshly charged it shows 91% on my Therion and seems to go down quickly from there. I've got do be doing something wrong...Right? From what I've read you're supposed to put nominal voltage for the pack voltage. But the listed nominal voltage does vary for these VTC6s from 3.6-3.7 depending on what source you read... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Alendaran said:
I'm sorry but you are mistaken. The Wismec Reuleaux powered by Evolv DNA 200 is indeed a evolv dna machine and the menus do not work as in a regular RX200. I know because I have both.
I'm sorry, but YOU are mistaken. In your original post you said "RX200". The Wismec RX200 is NOT a DNA device. The Wismec Reuleaux IS a DNA device. Get it? If you have both then you should certainly know what both are called... (because it's on the box). -
I haven't been on here in awhile but hoping I can get some advice. Been real busy lately and vaping on the same SS316L 24G fused claptoned with 36G KA1 for almost a month now. It's been through maybe four rinses/rewicks and they are pretty tan/brown now. Like the brown from oxidation? not from juice gunk. As in, I'm able to burn/rinse all the gunk off but the wires are still brown. Does everyone still think they are OK to vape on? I've asked this question before on other forums and always get a mix of answers but I still ask again and again because I'm hoping some metallurgist will see it and impart some educated advice...
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White as in white hot? No I pulsed them bright orange a few times to work out hot spots.
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So maybe somebody (David) can help me out here...
I just got my UD SS316L 28 gauge and my SSS304 32 gauge that I got from Unkamen. I ordered these wires specifically to make all SS fused claptons. Now an hour later I've gone through three builds and who knows how many feet of wire and I'll I've gotten is hotspot hell (all spaced builds btw), and all 3 builds (2.5mm ID spaced 6 wrap dual coils) have been kicking back to wattage mode immediately through Jaquith V3, 4, 3.25, a custom Steam Engine CSV and the SS mode on my RX200.
What I don't get is, how when I've used several SS316L+Kanthal fused Clapton builds successfully in both my DNA200 and my RX200, a SS316L+SS304 build won't stay in temp control...
And on my latest "success", I've noticed this!
Now is that freakin' rust??? That's how it looks after about 5 toots at 50-75 watts with the cotton still wet as you can see...
Why is this happening? -
MegaVape said:
It is an option in the Escribe software. It's under "Tools"
Ok, I'll check. While on the topic, let me ask a question completely unrelated to this thread and forum (lol), does anyone know how to reboot an Evic VTC Mini to force the New Coil/Same Coil prompt? -
How do you hard or soft reboot???VapingBad said:You should also be able get the same result forcing a new coil reading without a PC connection by loosening the atty, firing, re-tightening the atty and choosing new coil. It does seem to be a bug in refinement I would expect the logic give high priority to using the minimum resistance it measures while the room temp is >= 70 F as cold ohms.
Does soft reboot have the same effect?
Hard will lose the short term memory used by refinement and I would expect soft to store the current cold ohms before cycling. Hard is the same as disconnecting the battery and soft the same as going into sleep mode with regard to saving settings. -
Here you go David. 24g UD SS316L cores, 36g KA1 fused claptons. Came out to 0.09. Using your 3.25 because I get random slight dry hits but overall I'm impressed that TC is working at all. Set at 95 watts 450 F or so with preheat disabled.
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I just put a dual coil twisted 24g UD 316L 10 wrap, 2.5mm ID build in my Twisted Messes RDA and at first it kept popping out of TC. It came out to 0.1 ohms, wonder if that's the reason. It's been working somewhat on Jaquith's files but I have to set the temp low because it seems to be reading it real low. I was thinking of making a CSV with the Wire Wizard but knowing that Steam Engine's 316 CSVs suck already, I wonder if making a twisted CSV will be any better.
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Do you think it's more stable because you're building at such "high ohms"? I know it is still subohm but you know so many build below 0.5 and such these days. I have 24g SS316L and the most wraps I can fit in my largest rdas is 11 wraps which still comes out to about 0.25 ohms or so. I can never get it above 0.3.superericla said:I've been using ss430 (28 gauge) for a few weeks now and it's been great. I used the csv from steam-engine, and added in some more points calculated on their older TCR calculator to make it a touch more accurate. Running 430 with 0.75 ohms has been a lot more stable than I've experienced with ss316l or 317l. I'm running it right now at 440F, and the flavor and vapor production has been good.
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cukrus said:
i used ss430 awg24 yesterday and let me tell you- temperature is stable as hell when comparing to SS317L
How's the flavor? And what csv did you use? -
Jaquith said:
[QUOTE=johara45]Hello there everyone! I am new here and starting to get into temperature control vaping. So please forgive me if I'm asking stupid questions. I just picked up a DNA200 device by efusion and have to admit I really like it. Not sure of the characteristics of this device is, but the problem I'm having is that when I try an ni200 build, seems that it works properly it pulses when it reaches set max set temperature. But when I try building on titanium wires, I would see temp set at 200, and as soon as i fire I get "---" till I release the button. I'm not getting any live reading while firing but it does pulse the output when I hold it down. Is it normal that I dont get live reading when using titanium 1? I used steamengine to calculate the coil build and also downloaded the csv file for the dna200 and loaded it in one of the profiles. Another question I have is that with the titanium build I have ohms at .15 on the coils watts at 8.5 and temp set to 200f. I seem to be burning the cotton even at that setting and of couse the coils are glowing deep red even though I know its bad when using titanium. Is this normal? I've searched high and low for these answers but cant locate much info on these questions can anyone help, or point me in the right direction for these questions?
Thanks!
I've tried a lot of wires and for me by far Titanium has been the best. I prefer 24 gauge Titan Wires (Titanium Grade 1) http://titanwires.com/titan-wire-retailers/
Here's the CSV that I use and NEVER do I get 'dark red' aka glowing wires nor burnt cotton http://www.filedropper.com/titanwirescsvfiles
For more help, I'd recommend reviewing the 'Custom TCR' help found here http://www.evolvapor.com/guide/story.html
Good luck![/QUOTE] David. Do you think your Titan wire csv will work better than the Steam Engine Ti1 csv for my lightning vapes Ti? It's surgical grade 1 so should be same as Titan right? -
Thanks. It's working fine again. Like I said I don't have the issue often. Only randomly after not vaping it for a while. And I don't have an aromarizer lol. It's on my Velocity, so I guess I could still do the test.
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Hey guys. So I've been having this issue every now and then with my Hcigar VT200 where when I press the fire button the wattage blasts at 120-150% of my set wattage for at least a full second. And I can see the wattage go that high on my display. My current build is a dual 10 wrap 24gTi/36gKA1 clapton build in my Velocity at 0.14 ohms. But it has happened with my spaced SS coils as well I believe. I'm using escribe 1.0.35.2 and the latest firmware and the Steam Engine Ti1 csv which works fine 99% of the time. Preheat at 120w/4 punch/0.5 sec with set wattage at 55 watts. It hasn't happened in a while but it happened last night right after disconnecting from my laptop after changing some screens. I double-checked afterwards to make sure my profiles were unaltered and they weren't. But yeah it just fires at like 100 watts for at least one second and then drops to 55. I put it away after a couple semi-dry hits last night and this morning picked it up and it was fine.
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So you're saying David that if I twist SS with Kanthal or better yet, make a SS core Kanthal outer clapton, I may get better TC results than using the SS alone??? If this is the case then I can't wait. The titanium/kanthal clapton I made is performing and tasting wonderfully now btw.
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Powerman said:
So ya, I had a SX Mini, and the pulse modulation didn't seem to do good with SS. Now I have 2 200s and I use Crown SS coils. Yes I know the issues... Anyway, I made a couple curves. For soft and hard. New and old coils. I doubled the points in my curve, but memory is very limited. I had to delete a couple... It seemed to help. Punch doesn't seem to make a difference. One is soft, one hard. But I have not turned it off.
How well are your Crown CSVs working for you? I couldn't get one that worked for me on my DNA200 but surprisingly on my new Evic VTC Mini, the stock SS profile they program in works beautifully...sometimes. First time I screwed it on, worked great. Second time I screwed my Crown on, cut prematurely and had weak, thin vapes. Third time, works great. Idk.
As for David's SS files, I think I've settled on the V4 and V3 for my attys. I still have preheat on but have the punch at 3, time at 0.75, and wattage at 20 watts above my vaping wattage (I vape around 55-65 watts and have preheat wattage at 80). -
Well I have not considered it and I have to say that I don't really plan on considering it unless the price you stated is a typo LOL. $150 per foot?! I haven't even given my wife anything in platinum yet!
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antyac2108 said:
420F. Sorry for the delayed answer i haven't been on here in a couple of days.
The reason I asked is because it seems to me that most people vape TC around 400 degrees F. I feel weird because I don't enjoy my TC vape (titanium, SS) unless its around 540-570 degrees F. -
Jaquith said:
No you're not tasting Ti02 and the natural formation Type (IV) with large particulates isn't the 'harmful' type anyway. Harmful isn't the food grade, natural, either aka in the recent past on your donuts. Instead the harmful type TiO2 is produced commercially and in a heavily acidic bath. As far as Clapton's vs Clapton's .. Ti/Ka vs what in comparison (wire & gauges)? Glad to hear you found a CSV that's working.
Well I guess what I'm comparing the taste to is what claptons I've vaped before: 26gN80/36gKA1. These are 24gTi1/36gKA1. But its been so long since I vaped those N80/KA1 claptons that its not a fair comparison. Plus I'm more familiar with vaping N80/KA1 fused claptons, 26gN80/36gKA1 to be exact. I guess I was hoping the flavor would be similar to that though I'm not saying it is bad at all. -
Jaquith said:
[QUOTE=jj6404]Ah. So do you think I should continue to use the build I already made and eventually the "gunk" may burn off? Or should I just ditch it?
I'd just clean it, take the deck off the Atty and soak it, rinse and brush, repeat then dry burn on low. Making a Clapton is a pain. [/QUOTE]
So I took the cotton out, soaked my deck in alcohol for like 10 min, then rinsed it under water. Then I fiddled with it with my screwdriver to get out hot spots (it's ever so slightly spaced) and pulsed it at 20W until it glowed a few times dull orange in the center of both coils. I made a CSV with the Wire Wizard on Steam Engine and it seems to be working fine. The flavor so far is pretty clean but not as dense and juicy as I expect yet from a clapton.
So what I don't like about this is that since the Ti is wrapped in KA1, I can't see the color of the Ti wire. I'm worried (like always) that I might have formed Titanium oxide because I let it glow orange, not bright orange, but orange. Do you think I would taste it if there was ti oxide? -
I know UD is Chinese. I was hoping you would know a US source of good SS that was cheaper than vapordna. Do you think twisting Ti and Kanthal would still yield decent temp control accuracy/stability? What do you mean my lipo will remind me? Claptons would take more battery life I assume?Jaquith said:Yeah I hear you about FT, but lol UD SS316L is Chinese; this is the wire I received but the UD and this is no doubt different https://m.fasttech.com/products/0/10016603/3361603-316l-stainless-steel-heating-wire-for-rebuildable The only Twisted I've done is 30/30 and 28/28 Ni200 / Kanthal. It makes builds like this possible http://m.imgur.com/uYUEwBo,2j2Zew3,afoLKoP I've also done Ni200 / Kanthal Clapton's http://i.imgur.com/PLofAnJh.jpg Sorry, I'm not trying to do a show and tell. If you have Ejuice that has different notes at lower temperatures that are different at higher then indeed Clapton's will bring both together for better or worse, generally better .. your battery / LiPo will remind you.
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Jaquith said:
I have both the rough and polished, as far as taste IMHO they're the same. The polished loses 1 gauge, so 24 is actually 25; the polished is easier to clean. LMAO, I guess the unpolished holds flavor like a good old iron pan. It's 6 of 1, half a dozen to another .. neither is really better. The polished is typically to dirtiest from powdered Ti and machine oil. I clean them both. The most efficient Titanium / Kanthal Clapton's are 24 gauge Titanium with 34 gauge Kanthal http://i.imgur.com/hLJLgrEh.jpg but I've used 30 gauge which is also very nice, it depends upon the juice. Steam Engine allows for the mix and Clapton's, but you know me I edit my own based upon a Titanium Grade 1 CSV. Tomorrow I'll post it, CSV file, I'm on my phone. Edit .. I used some Amazon SS316L, UD SS316L, and then some FastTech SS316L which while off actually works better than UD's. I also purchased some cheap Titanium Grade 1 from FastTech which was dead on in TC not to mention a fraction of the price. SS3XXX wire, all of it should be dirt cheap!!! Yep it is I David. :-)
Awesome. Thanks for all the continued info. So the only small gauge Kanthal I have is 36 gauge. The problem that I have with ordering wire from FT (besides the obvious shipping time) is that you search one thing and get 20 results. How will I know exactly what the good one you got is? Or even if I order the same thing if I will get the same thing? I fear I'll get some crappy Chinese stuff passing off as 316L. You said yourself they use different standards. I love Amazon, maybe I'll look there.
Do your Ti/Ka claptons provide the best flavor from titanium for you?(versus twisted, regular spaced, contact) -
Jaquith said:
The only difference in the Titanium is rough vs polished. As I mentioned, I use 24 gauge Titanium. I think the gauge has more to do with the 'experience' .. I know I prefer 26 gauge Ni200 over 28 or 30, but I've done twisted and Clapton Ni200. I have some sweet Titanium / Kanthal Clapton's. Part of the flavor added notes is from mixing wire types in Twisted, Clapton's, etc avoiding 'monotone' temperatures. I'm not saying SS is garbage, I'm saying it's jumpy, difficult to properly TC, and because of the apparent alloy (foundry) differences one SS316L is not the same as another. In contrast Titanium has a steeper TCR and is both much easier to TC accurately and universally there's only one Titanium Grade 1 vs at least 4 alloy variants of SS316L not to mention multiple standardizations. China uses GB not SAE standards.
You said as you mentioned you use 24 gauge Titanium. I use 24 gauge Titanium as well. So is your titanium polished or rough? Is there any advantage in flavor for one vs. the other?
I know this isn't the right thread for this but could you give me any tips on twisting/claptoning titanium builds to get best flavor and TC accuracy/stability?
And for a thread-related question: where do you get your SS? If there is a better and cheaper source than vapordna where I get my UD SS316L I'd very much like to know. Thanks Dave! (It is dave, right?) -
Jaquith said:
LOL about the only quasi accurate CSV is their Titanium Grade 1 profile. I use Titan Wires and I'd recommend 24 (25 gauge actual after polishing), and yep I space them all. Probably not as much as you might think. Here's an example of one that was totally gunked up but I cleaned by 20W, dual, and rinsed under water with a toothbrush http://i.imgur.com/8WKpCNHh.jpg Stainless Steel is a pain, I'm about done with it, and it's soooo much easier having 1 TC wire to deal with. Titan Wires http://titanwires.com/titanium-wire works great on all my Titanium Mods.
Idk. I can't get over the taste with SS. It's probably the closest I've got to kanthal/nichrome fused claptons, which was my go to build for a long time before venturing into TC. Though I am playing around with my settings a lot using your CSVs. Thanks again btw, very helpful. I haven't found my sweet spot yet. I dance around 540-570 and 55-65 watts on your V4 and V3 with an 80 watt preheat/0.75 sec/3 punch. No dry hits at all, just not hitting that sharp dense mentholated flavor bite that I like yet. I got one build spaced with that UD 24g 316L and one build contact with the same number of wraps (10) dual coil. They taste about the same but with the contact build I get a turbulent airflow vape for some reason in my El Cabron. I know this is most probably due to my coil height/placement but I feel like it's almost pulsing like a Snow Wolf or something...
BTW my Ti builds look very different from yours. Not the wraps, mine are spaced just about the same, but the color. I don't dry-burn mine like yours, but mine is more of a lighter grey color. Like I mentioned previously I've only got experience with Lightning Vapes Ti 1. It comes light grey and then I wipe it down with that 70 Isopropyl Alcohol, wrap it, wick it, vape it.
Glad to be back!/Another Therion VTC6 Question
in Batteries and Charging
Posted
Thanks guys. Looks accurate now. Out of curiosity, the watt-hours should be more than 19.96, right? Why do we even have to "trick" the board to display accurate battery life?