arsacane
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Posts posted by arsacane
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Things to try
1) Check the voltage of each battery with a voltmeter; one battery might be dead.
2) Check the plastic cover of the batteries (specially in the positive side); the Therion has a 'mechanical' reverse battery protection (a lip around the positive contact that might prevent contact if the battery wrapping is not perfect)
3) Double check the battery orientation
4) Try with another pair of batteries freshly charged on an external charger.
Good luck. -
I might be complete wrong but I assume that when in TC it shows the cold resistance (normalized to 20C after taking into account room temp) vs the live ohms (real time resistance)...
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The Therion is a wonderful device but I don't like the battery tray; these mechanical reverse battery protection is a pain (same thing goes for wismec's Reuleaux DNA200). Some batteries do not seem to make good contact (I had problems with a re-wrapped battery; the shrink tube that I have seems to be a tiny fraction thicker than the original one) and since the cells are in parallel there is no way to tell.
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The screen of my VS DNA200 died =(
It started by getting scrambled from time to time and finally gave up. Does Evolv sell the screen with the longer screen cable?
If anybody replaced the screen of a VS and documented the process (instructions and or pics and or video) please send me a link; it will help a lot.
TIA, D. -
How can I get one?
I would love to have all DNA200 / DNA75 functionality in my old rDNA (great form factor)! -
I have the same problem (early vaporshark dna200 batches) and although it didn't go away the problem is rarely occurring now after I used some electronic contact cleaner spray...
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I do get a pretty decent battery life using a high resistance with SS316 (0.35mm don't know what AWG is that) on single coil a tank (wotofo serpent). Of course a dual coil direct lung power monster (v.g. Griffin or similar) will certainly lead to shorter battery life. I find that SS heats up pretty quickly so I did a profile with low watts (40W) but an agressive pre-heat (punch 8 or more up to 70W for 0.5s) and when I look in the device monitor my puffs hover around 20-35 W avg.
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Same problem with a vaporshark. It seems that it's working better after applying some contact cleaner to to fire button. It's very annoying though.
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Although my german is really poor I do enjoy your videos Obi; great work!
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I'm using the curve from steamengine for ss316 and I found that it works great when you build higher resistances (>0.6 ohm). I'm currently running the Triton RTA base with a vertical coil (around 10 or 12 spaced wraps over an M4 screw) at 0.91 ohms and it is one of the best vapes that I ever had. I also used ss316 in the subtank with the dicodes and it was also very good (always with resistances ranging from 0.4 to 0.7 ohms).
Regards, D. -
I agree with Droopydr4oors, SS works pretty well and it's super easy to work with. It is probably not the most precise regarding the actual temperature but it is very consistent, adjust to taste and enjoy it.
can i disable "locked" option?
in General Discussion
Posted
Clean the fire button with some contact cleaning spray, it helped with my old vaporshark dna200.
If you want to disable the lock, as a workaround, you might want to set the number of clicks lock/unlock to more than 3; this will make the lock much more unlikely but if it ever lock it will be a PITA to unlock...