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Odin Mini - Can't get anything to work properly


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11 minutes ago, zark said:

Мне кажется, что для начала нужно установить больший диапазон изменения сопротивления в Escribe и выбрать использование "непонятных " катушек (извинения я не знаю английский). На какой-то ветке форума модераторы описывали эти настройки, обратитесь к @Wayneo @dwcraig1

печать.jpg

Translation:

It seems to me that first you need to set a larger resistance range in Escribe and choose to use "incomprehensible" coils (sorry, I don't know English). On some forum thread, moderators described these settings, refer to @Wayneo @dwcraig1

Great advice @zark, except the DNA75C doesn't have that option.

Отличный совет @zark, за исключением того, что у DNA75C такой возможности нет.

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1 hour ago, Wayneo said:

Hey @Dustie

That is not normal, and I'd suggest you re-check the mesh is clamped in properly.

This is normal, and your mesh should be more like this when it's clamped down properly.

I'd suggest you start with that latter atty to get it all clear on what's going on. i'd put that .580 coil/atty on your mod, be in the replay profile, and read/measure the resistance. Let me know if you're just still planning on going to the store. 🙌

It is properly clamped, I think my atomizer is just broken. Though it works just fine with my other mods, it's only the Odin that it won't work with. I understand the DNA might be more strict though with dodgy atomizers and coils so maybe that's why?

Trying out the .580 at/coil does work, though I still have a few issues. It does seem to read better though, I can at least get it to hit. I don't use that old att though, so I'd essentially have to get another mesh RTA to make the Odin work.

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I've never seen a DNA ask new or old coil unless the coil (or mesh) was briefly disconnected. That tells me there is a connection problem like @Wayneo had stated. Also SS material will increase in resistance the hotter it gets like many has noted. So that part is fine. Although at vaping temperatures it is usually 15% to 20% increase in resistance. Yours is higher, so that is really hot and is probably in the high 500°F or higher.

There are two different types of Temperature Protect messages. One vapes normally and pops up Temperature Protect once the coil/mesh reaches the set temperature. This message can be permanently disabled in EScribe. The other type of Temperature Protect will seem dead when firing. This protection kicks in when the resistance changes too fast or too slow compared to what the DNA thinks it should. This could happen if the material type is the wrong type (TFR/TCR settings) or there is a loose connection.

You can enable Replay for any Profile with EScribe. Although Replay won't work correctly unless the coil/mesh changes resistance with temperature.

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1 minute ago, Dustie said:

It is properly clamped, I think my atomizer is just broken. Though it works just fine with my other mods, it's only the Odin that it won't work with. I understand the DNA might be more strict though with dodgy atomizers and coils so maybe that's why?

Trying out the .580 at/coil does work, though I still have a few issues. It does seem to read better though, I can at least get it to hit. I don't use that old att though, so I'd essentially have to get another mesh RTA to make the Odin work.

What type of RTA do you have? Some (most) can be tightened up. Most can from the bottom of the 510 pin. Generally there is a screw in the center that sometimes can loosen up.

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5 minutes ago, BillW50 said:

What type of RTA do you have? Some (most) can be tightened up. Most can from the bottom of the 510 pin. Generally there is a screw in the center that sometimes can loosen up.

I have a Kylin mesh RTA, one of the few that can't be tightened. The pin is completely flat.

The coils I'm running in it should be 0.15ohms, but they start at between 0.2 and 0.3, so something is obviously wrong with it to some degree. It's weird though how it works mostly fine on all my other mods, even if it's a bit dodgy.

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Even if there is no screw on the 510 to tighten up. They must have screws going to the base to hold the positive piece in place with an insulator. It could be on the deck or screw(s) underneath the base.

I'm now looking at a pic of a Kylin Mesh RTA and that screw dead center on the deck might be also used to hold everything together. See if you can tighten it some. Don't overtighten, as the insulator could crack. If that isn't it, it has to be something that holds it all together. I don't think they would just press fit everything and requiring it to be insulated too.

Edited by BillW50
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The screw in the middle of the build deck I think is just for the piece that pushes up against the cotton to keep it on the mesh. I'll certainly try it though, I only just rebuilt again though so it probably won't be today! Need a bit of a break...

Thanks for the help though, I think it's probably my atomizer causing most of the problems, then maybe just a few kinks to work out on the Odin.

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I use a few Geekvape Zeus X Mesh which the deck is almost an exact clone of a Kylin Mesh RDA. Although I never tried SS mesh in them yet and I probably should. Although if you are thinking about buying a Zeus in solving your problems, I wouldn't and especially if you have a lot of Kylin strips. As they use different size strips.

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Thanks, I really like the build deck on the Kylin. I actually really like everything about it, that's why I was pretty quick to start giving up on the Odin. If I can't use my Kylin it's no good to me!

I actually use OFRF Nexmesh ones, not the Kylin own brand ones.

If I can't fix my Kylin I imagine I'll just buy another. Obviously it has a resistance issue, I just don't know how serious it is, if it's fixable, is it a problem with the tank itself and if I buy another will it happen again.

 

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35 minutes ago, BillW50 said:

Oh I don't believe your Kylin is unfixable. I am sure there is a way to tighten it up somehow.  ;)

I hope so! I'm not sure how it's put together fully, I just hope it's not completely press fit so it's not easy to tighten (if that's what it is).

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57 minutes ago, dwcraig1 said:

At 2:38 there is mention of the media blasted 510 threads possibly causing connection issues.

OMG that is horrible! By the way, that center screw uses left hand threads says DJLsb Vapes. So to tighten, turn counterclockwise.

Edited by BillW50
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OK so I opened up my Kylin, and did a full rebuild. I noticed a couple of things.

1) There was a spring missing from one of the screw in posts that clamps the mesh. There was a spare in the box, so I've added that. It didn't seem to fix it though.

2) The central screw pin just undoes the ceramic cotton pusher upper. Underneath it is a pin that I assume attaches to the 510 on the bottom of the mod. It seems to spin in sync with the build deck.

3) I noticed that one of the clamp / posts was black and asymmetrical to the other one. It looked like it had a bit of metal shaved out of it honestly, it just doesn't look right. I ended up swapping the posts round, and actually got stable resistance!

So as of right now I am vaping on it. I have had it die on me once (resistance dropped from 0.21 to 0.19) randomly. Probably because of the extra resistance from priming the coil with juice (?) dropping off? Takes a bit to bed into the "final" resistance maybe. I still think my atomizer is busted, I'll probably buy another Kylin, I still love it and it hasn't given me a bad vape (it always works on my Vandy Vape Swell, in TC no less). No idea how a chunk is missing from the post, and no idea why swapping the posts (temporarily?) "fixed" it.

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Posted (edited)
On 7/23/2021 at 11:35 PM, BillW50 said:

OMG that is horrible! By the way, that center screw uses left hand threads says DJLsb Vapes. So to tighten, turn counterclockwise.

It was normal threads from what I remember! It might not have been though, I remember for sure it was actually a hollow screw that threads onto that little gold post / pin I mentioned.

Edited by Dustie
Forgot somefin
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  • 1 month later...

Pardon my jumping in but I have 3 Odins (1 250c & 2 75c's) . I have this problem with one of the minis. The problem is in the 510 assembly. Took the entire mod apart and found no obvious problems, then disassembled the top cap assy apart and found  signs of leaks. Soaked top cap assy in isopropl alchohol.Prettymuch fixed the resistance readings, but I have to tighten the atty much tighter then normal. Resistance went from .24 to 16 which is normal....Be sure to let the top cap assy dry .....

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