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Lost Vape Paranormal 250c issues


Photo Pete

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So almost 3 years ago, the creator of steam-engine said this "I don't believe we will ever have accurate standard SS files anyway. It is better to use NiFe or Ti if you want accuracy, IMHO. I suspect that the people using SS adjust to taste and call it good enough - which is fine if that's what you want"
 

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Interesting.

Stealthvape recommend the Steam Engine file for their wire. Are you suggesting this recommendation may be wrong and a higher TCR might be required?

Is Ti the best option to try and calibrate to?

Still seems odd that arctic fox consistently handles the Steam Engine SS316L  file in a more expected manner.

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So my ticket has suggested I return the mod to Evolve for what could be a resistance reading problem. I am to ship the mod from UK to USA at my own cost and the terms and conditions state they hold no responsibility for any damage caused during the repair.

They’re kidding right?

On that basis I’ll be returning it to the vendor in the UK for a full refund and use the money to buy another brand that works.

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Evolve warranty covers the board only for 1 year.... they do a very good job of repair but surely you understand their warranty only covers the board... I guess you could just ask them to let you send only the board..... vendor replacement with a new Paranormal 250C may be your best bet.... 

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1 hour ago, WingedLion said:

I just got my Paranormal back from Evolv with a new board and it still has the same problem, I'm guessing they're going to have to fix the firmware because a new board doesn't fix the problem.

Sorry to hear that. Maybe this is a hardware problem with the Paranormal rather than a board or firmware problem?

It would be a little ironic for me if it turned out to be a faulty 510 connector in the Paranormal, as a poor 510 connector is why I ‘upgraded’ from my much cheaper Wismec Reuleaux RX Gen 3.

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14 hours ago, Photo Pete said:

Sorry to hear that. Maybe this is a hardware problem with the Paranormal rather than a board or firmware problem?

It would be a little ironic for me if it turned out to be a faulty 510 connector in the Paranormal, as a poor 510 connector is why I ‘upgraded’ from my much cheaper Wismec Reuleaux RX Gen 3.

One improvement of the new board is if you turn off deep sleep, then it works as it should. The old board turning off deep sleep didn't make a difference.

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14 minutes ago, WingedLion said:

It still goes to sleep but doesn't lock when asleep.

Don't think it is going to sleep but the display is turning off as it does automatically....  Deep sleep on all DNA's I've had only kicks in after a long period of non-use.  It is designed to save battery during long periods of not being used (such as setting on the shelve) .... The sleep function was never user adjustable as far as I recall.... The lock feature was set up to disable the buttons to be more pocket friendly...  

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11 minutes ago, retird said:

Don't think it is going to sleep but the display is turning off as it does automatically....  Deep sleep on all DNA's I've had only kicks in after a long period of non-use.  It is designed to save battery during long periods of not being used (such as setting on the shelve) .... The sleep function was never user adjustable as far as I recall.... The lock feature was set up to disable the buttons to be more pocket friendly...  

Oh I see. I guess that's where the problem is. Once it  locks, you can't unlock it unless you hook it up to a computer or take the batteries out and put them back in.

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With auto-lock disabled you should still  be able to manually lock and manually unlock the device..... the display will go off after a period of time whether locked or unlocked.....   You might try this example to see what you get:

Set Lock time to 2 minutes and turn on Auto-lock....  let the device auto-lock and the display go off.... try to unlock......  the device won't go to sleep in 2 minutes so sleep is not a factor in this example..... 

Now turn auto-lock off and manually lock it and let the display turn off.... then manually unlock it....  

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None of those prevent deep sleep from waking the device once you press a button. It still does not come back to life without hitting the buttons many times. I will have to test it and only press a single button and see if it comes back to life. Maybe it is just taking ages to come out of deep sleep.

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On 7/9/2018 at 2:30 PM, retird said:

With auto-lock disabled you should still  be able to manually lock and manually unlock the device..... the display will go off after a period of time whether locked or unlocked.....   You might try this example to see what you get:

Set Lock time to 2 minutes and turn on Auto-lock....  let the device auto-lock and the display go off.... try to unlock......  the device won't go to sleep in 2 minutes so sleep is not a factor in this example..... 

Now turn auto-lock off and manually lock it and let the display turn off.... then manually unlock it....  

OK I tried that and it seems deep sleep is the problem. I also I see I posted this in the wrong thread by accident. I meant to post in the deep sleep thread.

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@Photo Pete

Hi … if I understand your "problem" the right way:

There is no sensor for temperature in any mod  … and not in any atomizer. 

Temperature Control only concearns the heating wire.  If you are using five different atomizers, you will have five different vapes at the same chosen "temperature". 

If you open or close the airflow, this will change the temperature of the vape … for example ...

 

I am using ArcticFox-Firmware, too … but AF does not make the sensors for resistance or 510 connection in a mod any better - it uses them in a better way to calculate differences of resistence better … and this is called "temperature control"

I have a dozen DNA mods and three dozen atomizers - six mods with ArcticFox - and 10 with normal firmware. The vapes are all different if I use a single atomizer at 240 ° C alternately in turns at all mods.

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2 hours ago, Sternenwolf said:

I have a dozen DNA mods and three dozen atomizers - six mods with ArcticFox - and 10 with normal firmware. The vapes are all different if I use a single atomizer at 240 ° C alternately in turns at all mods.

Hi

Is the vape similar when using each of your DNA mods or are they completely different to each other when using the same atomiser / tank?

My arctic fox mods all vape similarly with the same tank (minor differences) but the Paranormal DNA mod is COMPLETELY different. It needs around 50F increase in temp to be comparable. What magnitude of difference are you experiencing with the same tank on different mods please?

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@Photo Pete

I just tested an OBS Engine II on two Paranormals … same settings - same vape

But the settings do not work the same on my Eleaf INVOKE with ArcticFox  and 316L-TFR-curve… there same vape at 40°C less 

On my Wismec Presa with ArcticFox and 316L-DNA-Curve 40°C higher gives the same vape. 

This ist because no mod has a probe in the atomizer's chimney

 

If you have 10 Mods and only 1 Atomizer, you can trim the 316L-settings on each mod  - but if you have 10 different atomizers??? You have only 8 Profiles - and it is a lot of work. 

Just give it a few more clicks - and temperature is fine. 

My Ijoy Captains are for my 30mm atomizers - my Therions and Paranormals are for my Kylins  and Aromamizer Supreme - my Finders are for my Triple RTAs - my Triades are for some other atomizers - as my old Reuleaux and other older mods.

The DNA250C-mods are the best I have ever vaped with - very exact measuring of resistance … and very fine mods. But you can have a very fine vape with non-DNA-mods, too … 

 

 

 

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I've been sticking mostly to replay mode on my paranormal 250c mostly because I get intermittent anemic (very cool) puffs in TC mode. That said, the closest I've come temp settings wise to ArcticFox on it is using jaquith's v4 ss316L profile. As in, when I use 316L TFR on AF I typically set the temp to 210C with this one atomizer and with the v4 profile I've been setting it to 213C on the paranormal. That isn't to say the temp is particularly accurate with that curve... but that it's where I've become used to it being.

 

I do love my paranormal/DNA 250C board, far far better than the DNA75 I had used previous to it. Here's hoping it lasts a long time and never suffers the "won't wake up" issue 😊

Edited by joeblowma
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@joeblowma As a solid AF user, are you using V4 on both your DNA mods and AF mods, or is that 316L TFR from Steam-engine?

So here's where we are;

@Photo Pete gets great results with AF and the standard s-e profile (effectively 0.00088). And not so on his DNAs, yet swears by his Joyetech mods as the gospel.

@retirdgets great results with his DNAs, and uses a profile (effectively 0.00100)

The great DJLSB vapes, publishes 0.00092

Your Jaquith V4 (temp probe tested for his particular spool of UD wire) at 200C/392F is effectively 0.00133 (almost s-e's SS430), and at 250C/482F is effectively 0.001217. At Pete's 470F it would be 0.00123

I'm not arguing with any of you, just standing by every comment I've previously made.  🍻

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@Photo Pete There is no way any AF capable chipset gives better results than any DNA chipset. Just isn't in the same league.
Now, the mods the chips are put into are a different matter.
Lost Vape, IMO, has dropped the ball on QC with nearly all their recent mods. Including their Modefined series. Your problem lies with them, not Evolve.
I have one of their less than stellar Paranormal 250c mods and find it does odd things from time to time. I work around them as I love Replay mode. I'm actively looking for a new dual battery 250c and when I find it, will retire the Paranormal. Lost Vape is no longer on my list.

For your issue, I can partly sympathize. If you are handy, open it up and look at the wiring especially at the 510 connector. Or, exchange the mod for a different one wherever you bought it if still in the return window. Else, bump the temp/use Replay and vape.

Edited by ShowerHead
Clarity
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On 7/11/2018 at 3:57 AM, Photo Pete said:

Hi

Is the vape similar when using each of your DNA mods or are they completely different to each other when using the same atomiser / tank?

 What magnitude of difference are you experiencing with the same tank on different mods please?

The vape is similar on all of my DNA devices when using the same tank/atty with SS316L coil.  This is across my DNA 75, DNA 75C, DNA 200, DNA 250, and DNA 250C devices.  The profiles are set the same in all my devices.

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