Asmodeus

Starting over help thread.

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Ok. So there are days when I wish personal accountability wasn't an inherent counterbalance to my strong belief in personal freedom. Today is one of those days... I vaped some (new) LG HG2's down to where the car ride home had dropped the temps enough that I would touch into the check battery warning. These 20A batteries were essentially useless because around 3.8v (each) they were done-zo. I put them in the minikin v1.5 and screwed my atty on (.09 twice twisted 26g spaced). This is right around what it won't fire. No issues. Insert a long string of expletives. K. All done. I figured I'd Amazon prime up some parts and either way the DNA was coming apart... Now. Good thing my epoxy held to the anodized case - not at all. Lots of very gentle prying mm by mm and I snuck the battery tray out and began removing the contacts from it. And that's when I earned my (@ss) hat, which, I will now wear because of that infernal accountability thing... My pack bridge was... the cell tap. I went through the effort of stripping in the middle of the wire so it was exactly spaced perfectly on back side of the battery contacts, and the end perfectly soldered to the adjacent tab. And... must have been so satisfied with my cleanliness, I never actually bridged the contacts/pack with an appropriate gauge wire... So a small portion of a 22g wire resting neatly on the top side contacts was all that was letting current flow. So I'm dumb AF. Which, is usually the problem in life. Having trouble there little dude? Why yes, yes I am... It's cause you're stupid. Yes. Yes it is. After carefully balancing the tray on some tape I was able to put those same batteries back in and fire them in DM with barely any sag at all, and very little difference between them. After juicing the atty 2-3 times on the same batteries that gave me the issue before I started I declared victory, taped it back up and glued it back in with super glue. If I still have issues this tray is now almost destroyed and I will replace it. Image may not conform to the level of forum appropriateness, but it is appropriate for (me) this situation. Wearing the hat unless it genuinely bothers someone.

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LOL, good to hear it's finally working out in the DNA's favor. think of it like trying to drink a milkshake through one of those tiny coffee stir straws (milkshake being the current, stir straw being the wire and you are the DNA 167).

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Asmodeus said:

Ok. So there are days when I wish personal accountability wasn't an inherent counterbalance to my strong belief in personal freedom. Today is one of those days... I vaped some (new) LG HG2's down to where the car ride home had dropped the temps enough that I would touch into the check battery warning. These 20A batteries were essentially useless because around 3.8v (each) they were done-zo. I put them in the minikin v1.5 and screwed my atty on (.09 twice twisted 26g spaced). This is right around what it won't fire. No issues. Insert a long string of expletives. K. All done. I figured I'd Amazon prime up some parts and either way the DNA was coming apart... Now. Good thing my epoxy held to the anodized case - not at all. Lots of very gentle prying mm by mm and I snuck the battery tray out and began removing the contacts from it. And that's when I earned my (@ss) hat, which, I will now wear because of that infernal accountability thing... My pack bridge was... the cell tap. I went through the effort of stripping in the middle of the wire so it was exactly spaced perfectly on back side of the battery contacts, and the end perfectly soldered to the adjacent tab. And... must have been so satisfied with my cleanliness, I never actually bridged the contacts/pack with an appropriate gauge wire... So a small portion of a 22g wire resting neatly on the top side contacts was all that was letting current flow. So I'm dumb AF. Which, is usually the problem in life. Having trouble there little dude? Why yes, yes I am... It's cause you're stupid. Yes. Yes it is. After carefully balancing the tray on some tape I was able to put those same batteries back in and fire them in DM with barely any sag at all, and very little difference between them. After juicing the atty 2-3 times on the same batteries that gave me the issue before I started I declared victory, taped it back up and glued it back in with super glue. If I still have issues this tray is now almost destroyed and I will replace it. Image may not conform to the level of forum appropriateness, but it is appropriate for (me) this situation. Wearing the hat unless it genuinely bothers someone.

Hey man, thanks for breaking the bill of that hat in. I'll be taking that from you now, as I've earned the wearing of it for a time. Ok, so this morning my build finally went nuclear and so I was of the same opinion. "I'may going in with a different, modified sled and I'm going to make this work." The battery monitor was oscillating between full and empty, and I was getting an intermittent "imbalanced" message. I started tearing stuff apart. Thankfully I never soldered the sled in (no real need to IMO, as it wants to sit right and battery swaps don'the make it move even a little). Lo and behold, as soon as I unmounted the board and pulled the sled out, the wire I had soldered from the positive to the balance tab broke right off....I had apparently gotten a little agressive when striping it and damaged most of the filaments in the core. Soldered in a new wire, screwed the board down, and my wife is back on track sacking down my juice supply.

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Which 510 is that? Fat daddy? I used a varitube V2 and I think it protrudes more into the enclosure. It is almost resting on my battery. I mean it is so so close. I want to do a pink or a green one. I was thinking of sanding off the anodizing in some places and using a chemical blackening agent to make it two tone. Glad you got yours figured out too. My magnets creeped out a hair as well. I used 5m epoxy. I let them sit hours and hours. Still have a teeny gap because of it. I wish there was a way to soften them up to get them out and back in. I'd really like to put the smallest film of RTV in the gap so that when the door is on and I'm dousing the atty under water it doesn't get in the door crack.

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Yeah it's a fat daddy v4....I'd stay way from the v5s. The v4s are easy to work with. If you 2 tone yours let me know how it works out. I'very been considering playing around with home anodizing.

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Also, I have no idea why my epoxy didn'the set completely after 10 hours, but I thought they were good, removed the clamps and they crept....argivating. i'm thinking about drilling tiny holes to eliminate the hydraulic effect next time. I used magnets on the reverse side of the door and those stayed in fine and hardened like they were suppose to.

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I masked off the interior and just took a Dremel to the offending magnets. They were only protruding a hair so I just knocked them down and my door sits flush now. The dust is obviously magnetic, and would be all through the inside wreaking havoc. So if you do it. Mask off the inside completely and take your time. I used? a worn out cut off disc and just feathered from the magnet out to my taped off portions. Then hit it with aluma-black. The dust will periodically ignite even if you are careful to wipe it away from the area you're working on. So be smart.

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Without a finish, won'the the magnets start corroding almost immediately? My last set did, but maybe that was the remnants of the finish that corroded.The hair line crack doesn't offend me much. TBH, I would be more worried about it if I wasn'the already planning my next build. I think I'll order a battery this week :)

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JTree said:

Without a finish, won'the the magnets start corroding almost immediately? My last set did, but maybe that was the remnants of the finish that corroded.The hair line crack doesn't offend me much. TBH, I would be more worried about it if I wasn'the already planning my next build. I think I'll order a battery this week :)



Not sure.  I hit the worked over areas with BC aluma-black and then applied a thin film of clear RTV to the entire edge of the case, then wiped it mostly off.  The magnets turned black, as did the aluminum that I managed to scuff the anodizing off of.  My magnets were chrome plated and when I tried to heat them to soften the epoxy.  (With a soldering iron) it took a little of the plating off anyway.  That's when I decided "whatever" and the grindy bits came out.

Relieving the magnet holes like... O- may be the trick.  Just running a teeny drill bit against the inside of the hole to give it a way to sink and allow the air out should work.  I have a smaller routing bit I could run in the dremel, but I hate using it.  Those little metal "hairs" always end up in me.  

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