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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/15/2018 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    Some of the first DNA Go boards can occasionally get into a state where they do not respond to button presses or USB. As of this posting, we have received reports of 180 affected devices. Approximately the first 30,000 devices produced might have it happen at some point. We’ve produced about 78,000 boards total. In the spirit of transparency, we’ve created a publicly accessible page which will automatically update from our production and service servers, so that we (and you) can track this as it goes. https://www.evolvapor.com/info/dna-go-stats A few key points: Current production DNA Go devices shouldn’t be affected. If your board was made in October 2018 or later, it shouldn’t be at risk of ever exhibiting this issue. The devices aren’t actually damaged. They’re just in a hardware reset state waiting for a signal that won’t ever come. We found the root cause approximately a month ago, after the first affected devices came in. The problem is in the circuitry that can read an analog microphonic pressure sensor (more expensive than the typical vaping device pressure switches), and since neither the Orion nor any of the other DNA Go based devices that we know of actually use this functionality, we just disabled it. If you send a device showing this behavior to us, it takes about 5 minutes to make the modifications and reset it, so they’re being turned around quickly. Once repaired, your device is no longer at risk of it happening again. So far, only about 6 per 1000 of the potentially affected devices have exhibited this problem. We expect most never will, but that number will increase somewhat as time goes on. We’re extending Lost Vape’s 90 day warranty to 1 year for affected units for this issue only. If you have a device exhibiting this behavior, contact us for a repair ticket at our Helpdesk.
  2. 8 points
    EScribe Suite 2.0 SP18 For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP18_US_ServicePack.exe For US-based customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP18_US.pkg For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP18_INT_ServicePack.exe For international customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP18_INT.pkg For customers using Linux, see the beta thread. --- EScribe --- When you double-click an .ecig file, it now opens a Settings Installer (similar to the Theme Installer). --- EScribe Suite --- Fixed MacOS Mojave compatibility. Minor bug fixes.
  3. 5 points
    If you are encountering the issue mentioned in this thread -- spurious Temperature Protetected messages when using a high-CPU theme like Gauges, with a low-Tcr material [, and possibly, high Preheat settings... any of these three could cause the problem on their own, but it's much less likely] -- when using Temperature Protection but not Replay, and would be willing to try an experimental firmware, give one of these a go: https://downloads.evolvapor.com/DNA250Color_v1_1_SP38_US_test.sw-service (US Edition) https://downloads.evolvapor.com/DNA250Color_v1_1_SP38_INT_test.sw-service (International Edition) This won't help if your problem is related to your 510 connector or electrical grounding. Anyway, let me know how it works for you, if you run into any new bugs, etc. Thanks!
  4. 4 points
    It is fair to say replay replaces temp control, it is built on top of Evolv's temp control tech and couldn't work without it. A bit like some cars having computerised driving aids replay would be like the manufactures preset that works for most folks, but having all the fine adjustments with TC is more akin to a track car and can provide greater control and performance when desired.
  5. 3 points
    THE FORMULA DESCRIBED ABOVE DOESN"T SEEM TO APPLY TO YOUR ORION QUESTION. IN A NUTSHELL, I RECOMMEND THAT YOU USE A 50/50 E-LIQUID OF WHATEVER STRENGTH YOU LIKE. I OWN 5 ORIONS AND HAVE BEEN ROTATING THEM SINCE LATE OCTOBER IF MEMORY SERVES. We don't have options on what metal are pods are made with. Lost Vape has made that decisions for us. We can only program the wattage, up to a max of 40. I never go beyond 20 + boost. Lost Vape suggests in the owners manual that freebase nicotine should be used with the 0.25 ohm coil and that nic salts can be used in the 05 ohm coils (as well as the new Q coils). In truth, nic salts can be used in the 0.25 ohm but I wouldn't go higher than 35 mg niece salts as 50 gives you a buzz. it's your decision wha mg and which nicotine you use in any of their pods. VG/PG RATIO IS A GREAT QUESTION & WARRANTS YOUR UNDERSTANDING OF A FEW FACTORS. E-liquid is the combination of 3 or 4 things. Flavored adult lube is almost identical in composition (vegetable glycerin, flavorings & corn starch). nicotine - in either a pg or vg base flavorings - in a pg base (most common) PG - or not for Max VG e-liquids VG - smooth and tasty enough to vape by itself if the vapocaplyse comes and I could only bring 1 thing. After a few years you may be down to 0 or 3 mg and still want to enjoy the pleasures of vaping. This is the stuff to go with, its the stuff to clear your tank between flavors now (go buy some), the same stuff my Mom puts in her salads & teas. YOUR NICOTINE and Flavor content: Your 12 mg nicotine is a freebase e-liquid. Good level. WHERE DID YOU START AT? WHERE DO YOU WANT TO BE? In the Orion you are good to go with freebase in any of their pods and while 70/30 works, 60/40 or 50/50 works better. If you aren't familiar with the differences between freebase and nic salts I suggest you do more research to better understand it. I'm not a chemist, but have been making my own e-liquid well over a year now. I make them with both types of nicotine. Nic salts require a higher percentage of flavoring and usually have a higher nicotine content that freebase nicotine e-liquids. Example: If I make 100ml of a strawberry pineapple cream like Illuminati tastes, the freebase version might include 10ml PG based flavorings (4 in all), 20ml pure PG, 12 ml VG based nic (100mg/ml), 18 ml Kosher VG resulting in a 70/30 e-liquid good for any Subohm tank. The same flavor profile for a nic salt version might include 16ml PG based flavorings, 34ml Pure VG, 35ml VG nic salts & 15ml VG for a 50/50 e-liquid designed for a pod like the Orion, the Nord, the Breeze II and others. DON'T BE AFRAID OF THE BIG NUMBERS. Many people who used pod systems like the Juul when transitioning switched from that 50mg nic salt directly to a 6mg freebase easily... once they became quit from smoking. You can go back and forth. The nic level should be matched for the device you are using. I would suggest you try a 24mg nic salt like Time Bomb or Yami's Taruto 35mg salt nic which are both a 50/50 ratio. As are Dinner Lady, Naked 100 and Vaptesia nic salt lines. You will find with nic salts you take less puffs and yet feel very satisfied. From my experience the coils will give you the best lifecycle at 50/50 too. THE VG/PG RATIO: Yes VG can produce a larger cloud, but wattage limits that top a certain extent. The VG/PG ratio plays an important factor in wicking. With my Orions 70/30 has required I regularly take a 'wicking pull' to get e-liquid into the chimney side of the pod/ it burns out my pod within 2 weeks (vs 5-6). 70VG/30PG is fairly thick (did you reverse pg/vg in your question). Higher VG adds a thicker viscosity to your e-liquid. This means you must allow more time for your wick to saturate and keep up with your coils. Yes PG carries flavor better, in the short run. Flavors do oxidize in the VG well given a longer steep time. Its all about the oxidation process. Years ago 60PG/40VG & higher was commonplace. Then 50/50 emerged reigning until 2014 (?) when 70VG/30PG and Max VG became more readily available. At the same time nic salts hit the market in 2014. Some people have an allergy to PG. PG by itself doesn't taste great and many e-liquids include more sweetener to offset this. VG on the other hand has a pleasant sweet taste on its own so less is added. Sweetener can have a negative effect on your coil life. While 70/30 is what you see most e-liquids at, I believe some like Beard use 60VG/40PG for their freebase nicotine line. You might want to try that next. I don't notice a big difference from what parent company Charlies Chalk Dust offers in 70/30 for flavor. I think 60/40 works well for people who use mid range wattage and ohms. NIC SALTS ARE ALMOST ALWAYS MADE AT 50/50 & THESE E-LIQUIDS WERE REALLY DESIGNED FOR USE IN POD SYSTEMS EXCLUSIVELY. SIMILARLY MANY POD SYSTEMS WERE DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH NIC SALTS. You should never use them above 25 Watts or in an rda. You are more likely to burn your cotton/get a dry hit in the Orion with 70/30 e-quids. Don't worry about the clouds but be considerate of those around you when you vape. VAPING SAVES LIVES AND YOU ARE HELPING.
  6. 3 points
    Every 'C" board can run the US or Intl version of software. All depends what you load on it. So apart from 75watts, it can now Punch your watts to 100 to heat high mass coils quickly, as well as Replay your puffs.
  7. 3 points
    Hey gang, One of the reasons I wanted a DNA device was to replace the chip or screen if anything went wrong and not having to buy a new housing etc... I had about 7 weeks ago cracked the screen on my Lost Vape Paranormal 250C by being an idiot and walking into a table while it was in my pocket, I live in South Africa and reached out to Evolv consulting about repair, they referred me to an international partner. Not having the money for shipping I opted to buy a replacement screen for $14 including shipping and replace it myself, I have just completed this task. It was an amazingly awesome experience taking my mod apart and successfully replacing the screen. I only had to wait 6 weeks on shipping which is the international standard toSouth Africa, it was well worth the wait considering I now have my mod back in working order! Kudos Evolv for having created a system that is not closed off. A very happy customer over here! Conrad
  8. 3 points
    Talked with Nick from evolv. He was amazing. I live pretty close to the company so he allowed me to just drive there with my 2 broken Orions swapped them out and gave me some new pods. While my Orion wasn't working I tried the infinix and it wasn't comparable at all. The Orion has better flavor, produces more vapor, and gives a much more consistent hit.
  9. 3 points
    and instructions for those new to modding....... wish I would have had access to instructions when I started modding back in the day..... !!!! https://www.protovapor.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/XPV75C-Instructions-V1.1.pdf
  10. 3 points
    That is correct. We use clutch, only in first gear, to start rolling from a dead halt. Once the rig is in motion, we shift up or down, without a clutch just by synchronizing the vehicle's road speed with proper RPM of the engine. All transmissions alike 18-speed or 10-speed and everything in between. In fact, using the clutch, will not help you shift, if RPM of the engine is incorrect for the road speed of the vehicle, the clutch will make it worse. In every gear, you step on accelerator, then let go and pull the shifter out of the previous gear, into neutral, and right into the next gear. If the timing is correct, it will go in, like a hot knife in butter. To shift down, you just need to give it a little gas, in neutral and then into a lower gear. A clutch can be useful, only to pull the lever out of the gear, if were not fast enough to pull it out when you let go of the gas pedal. I'm a car-hauler, I transport cars on my truck and get to drive a lot of different cars, every stick-shift car, that I get to drive, from Volkswagen to Lamborghini, I drive the same way. It's like riding a bicycle, once you learn, you never forget. That said, I have to admit that I am a Hypocrite, because my current truck has an automatic transmission. Who needs shifting with all these electronics gadgets nowadays? On the back, in my sleeper, I also have 32" LCD TV, Laser Printer and Scanner. I use Sprint for my Internet connection 50 Gigabytes of data per month. 😉 Back on Topic: I drove 620 miles yesterday, vaping only on my "Trucker squonk". It was a such a joy, not worrying about running out of liquid and/or batteries, then I forgot about that pasky little wire. In fact, those 14 gauge silicon super flexible wires are very good. I used about 15 ml. (50%) of liquid in my squonk in 14 hours yesterday, refilled in the morning and rolling again...
  11. 2 points
    Well for sure I now see that I should get some new glasses since finally acquiring a couple of color screen DNA mods.
  12. 2 points
    Hmm. Good call. I'll check that when I put it all back together and make sure there's not alignment issues causing poor contact due to the battery wrap. Thanks! Oof. I really wish I knew. I'm going to take care of that when I require this thing. It doesn't make any sense to me at all. I wish I knew what was going through their heads when the put these things together, and again when they "quality check" them. "Extensively," no less. 😔
  13. 2 points
    Looking at those individual low cell voltages, your battery could now be ready for a replacement.
  14. 2 points
    A few months ago there was a web site that sold a pure copper calibration tool for DNA mods. there address link is here -> https://smokefreemods.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6619269 However the web site is closed for non payment and has been suspended for quite a while now. The URL to the site incase it open again isabove. I actually used one to calibrate an HCigar DNA 75 mod. Here is a YouTube video that shows you how to calibrate the internal resistance if you can find one somewhere else. It needs to be pure copper. Here is the url to the video:
  15. 2 points
    I have a Paranormal DNA 250 C as well and the ohms resistance is very accurate on it. There are a few things you can do to make sure first that it is the Paranormal and not the RTA RBA or whatever you are using to vape with. You will need to open Escripe and under the menu Options/User Interface for this setting you will need to set it to Manufacturer after doing this you will see a second set of tabs just below. Click onto the Electrical tab and at the bottom you will see mode resistance. The setting there (if your mod has been calibrated correctly should be set to 0.004. If not then set it to 0.004 and then upload the new settings to your Paranormal DNA 250C. If is already set to 0.004 then I would suggest you clean your 510 pin and 510 threads and and see if that doesn't work. I own a Lost Vape Paranormal DNA 250C and a Lost Vape Therion DNA 75C and both are very accurate reading the ohms resistance. Lost Vape has a very good warranty on both Mods through Evolv if this does not work you can contact Evolv and tell them about your problem and they might some suggestions or they might want you to send it to them so they can fix it. If the mod resistance is not set right then this would be the most likely problem. Maybe it was missed in the setup process.
  16. 2 points
    I'd suggest this, now. EARLY SERVICE PACK EScribe Suite 2.0 SP19
  17. 2 points
    This one ( in the picture above) is the original Ginger Vaper Boxer. You could tell by how matte the finish looks, because it is 3-D printed. I just made and installed a stainless steel offset elbow adapter, just like the one in SXK Boxer clone, only not chromed brass, like they used. It is much better that way, no need to bend the hose (tube). I have an SXK Boxer clone too, that I replaced the board with DNA250C, it's working fine. And Vape Cige VTX250C, that was leaking like a sieve. This time, I replaced the leaky connector with Italian ModDog silver plated connector, that I machined and drilled to fit, also made an offset elbow as well. What can I say? I like my offset elbows. 😀
  18. 2 points
    EScribe Suite 2.0 SP19 For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_US_ServicePack.exe For US-based customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_US.pkg For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT_ServicePack.exe For international customers (Mac): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP19_INT.pkg For customers using Linux, see the beta thread. --- DNA 250 Color (firmware 1.1 SP38) --- Fixed a firmware crash that could occasionally come up when the device had been idle for a while. Fixed spurious Temperature Protected errors that could crop up in certain high-CPU themes with Replay off. --- DNA Go (firmware 1.1 SP38) --- Fixed a firmware crash that could occasionally come up when the device had been idle for a while. --- EScribe --- In Display tab -> Device Monitor, 'Remove Readout' no longer crashes. --- Production Utility --- Firmware -> Browse no longer crashes. DNA Go now does Fire Tests correctly.
  19. 2 points
    Is there an easy way to do it at home? Forget about voiding the warranty just say screw it and do it ourselves?
  20. 2 points
    I eyeballed this kit for a modification for a while and ended up buying one of the mods first. I have a kit on the way now for the planned modifications. The XPV 75C is a well built mod and shouldn't be beyond most builders abilities, actually I'd consider it a good place for a builder to start from just to have something that will last IMHO. The kit's reasonably priced, quality materials are supplied and few tools are needed. This is no Chinese zinc alloy mod and it is priced competitively with quite a few not built at nearly the same quality.
  21. 2 points
    No idea if you're talking in a Theme (which can vary), or Device Monitor. I'll talk Device Monitor so you know what CAN be available in a theme. In a Profile where a NON TC material has been selected you can do a BOOST PUNCH. Set 1 second slider. Effectively a hard normal soft like other mods, to give a beefy coil that extra to start vaping quicker. In a Profile where a TC material has been selected you can do a Preheat of the coil. You Preheat it by punch/watts, either by a slider 1-11 again (notice no timer), or to a temp, before the Preheat function ends.
  22. 2 points
    They could certainly improve on the user info available, great boards but poor in that respect IMO. I can't advise on replay as I only briefly played with it, been using TC on DNA boards for a couple of years though and learnt to get the best out of it (for me anyway) through experimentation. How I set TC up My goto set up: Edge mods Type R SS316L fused clapton (2 x 0.36 + 0.06 wrap) 7 wraps 3.5mm ID. Various 75C squonk mods I set power first. I'm not worried about fast ramp up with this, I set enough power that can comfortably increase coil temp under my normal draw, use device monitor if you want to find this visually, around 45 watts for this atty. Set temp to get decent flavour. If the vape is too warm or too cool then I'd change the build. Enable preheat. I set preheat power at 70W for this atty/build, it can be as much as you think your build can stand. I'd start with preheat punch around 7 or 8 and adjust to taste from there. In case you don't know what preheat punch does, it changes the the temp at which it cuts off the preheat power and drops down to your main power setting. The higher the punch the nearer to your set temp it stops preheat. What I'm aiming for with the settings is that there's enough preheat power to blast through the useless no vapour zone, then the power drops and you get a slower ramp through 'the flavour zone' up to the main temp limit. HTH
  23. 2 points
    Update: I tightened the 3 screws at the top of the 510 connector and the issue was fully fixed.
  24. 2 points
    It's a tricky one to explain and not very intuitive. But in the theme designer, 1. Go to the screen that has the wattage displayed. You may have to select the tab 'Temp Sensing Material or Can Replay' depending how the theme is set up. 2. Click on the watts number 3. Click on 'options' under 'source' 4. Change decimal places to '0' 5. Change step size to '1' If you'd rather, I'm happy to change it for you if you save the theme you're using and post the file on this thread. I can amend and post it in a reply.
  25. 2 points
    I am going to post here software and firmware Service Packs before they go on EScribe Suite's auto-updater, for those interested in trying things early, and so if yall find a bug we don't release it to the auto-updater. We appreciate your help testing these. RECOMMENDED SERVICE PACK EScribe Suite 2.0 SP17 EARLY SERVICE PACK EScribe Suite 2.0 SP19
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