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Yes for the neg side of the select, up, and down share the same pin 6 on the board.

So I need one wire to the positive and negative of each of the solder spots? Cause there's only one ground (-) spot on a dna 250c bored for external buttons

One connection to the switch is neg or ground (same thing). The pos switch connection is normally not ground unless the button is pressed. Thus if pressed, the pos becomes the same potential as ground. Now the chip sees the button is pressed. Virtually all digital switches work this way including keyboards.

Can someone explain to me how external buttons need to be wired? I have the image from evolv. Im just not sure on the positive and negative explanation.

Read and follow my post, 1 above the last before yours.

i have the same issue. i just bought it today. can you please tell me where to find those button options in escribe? plz help, i am lost

Did you update your firmware at any time recently? If so, what version are you running? Thanks!

I've uploaded a version, SP57. It's mostly a service pack for DNA 80 Color, fixing screen flicker issues and allowing graphical elements to be repositioned.

EScribe Suite 2.0 SP57For US-based customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP57_US_ServicePack.exe For international customers (Windows): https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP57_INT_ServicePack.exe Mac and Linux versions to come later. --- DNA 80 Color --- Fixed screen flicker. Made it possible to add a graphical startup logo. Made it possible to move all of the graphical controls.

Your last screen shot shows it throttling down from 34 watts to 29.38 watts. With the cell that you are using and firing at 34 watts that looks like there is still a problem. You seem to be on the right track to solving it. Is your adjustment screw on the battery cap at the end of it's adjustment? Meaning do you feel it may need to be holding to battery tighter?

" I noticed it kept climbing in charge when not using it to the point of gaining almost 10% charge within minutes, then taking a couple puffs, it quickly drops back to what it should be." Pretty normal behavior especially when charge is on low side. It is better to note actual standing voltage than to use the estimated percentage as it is just that (estimated). Here is a CSV for battery curve from my DNA250C, save yours first then give at a try if you want. It may be the same as yours or maybe different. Battery curve only changes percentages and battery bar, doesn't change how the mod works. DNA100C battery curve.csv

Thanks for the help so far, after cleaning the contacts and re-adjusting the battery cap, it stayed until 25% battery before dropping off. Not perfect, like how I used to get it to 10% before dropping but still, good enough that I'm happy with how it is now. Here's it with the battery at full charge and here it is at 25% when it started saying batt down. I noticed it kept climbing in charge when not using it to the point of gaining almost 10% charge within minutes, then taking a couple puffs, it quickly drops back to what it should be. Not overly concerning but just something odd. It was having a lot of difficulty reading the battery charge correctly compared to before

Here's a DNA100C with 40T firing at 45 watts, this voltage drop appears as expected.

For what ever reason the board isn't receiving enough power from the cell (amps) do to a bad connection, could be cell fitment, bad solder joint, ect Use EScribe's Device Monitor to see your voltage drop while firing. Here is one of mine that has a poor battery to board connection. The voltage drops to 3.37 volts when fired at 45 watts. If it drops to soft cell cutoff of 2.75 volts it will throttle down the wattage. Check yours with Device Monitor.

Why 18650 if I'm using a 21700? I'll set it back to 2.75, but what would happen if it was lower? Oh also, and I'm using it single coil 0.20 ohm at 35w. Typically chain a few puffs then set it down for 5-10 min. The battery goes into low batt mode after an hour of usage.

The correct setting would be 18650 and cell soft cut off at 2.75 volts (default)

I just cleaned it as thoroughly as possible with cotton swabs and 99% iso alcohol on both ends that the battery touches. I adjusted the screw on the cap to fit as tight as possible. I was poking around the escribe software and the cell soft cutoff range was I think around 3.5V default and the type is set to 18650 and it won't let me click it to change to 21700. I just moved the cutoff to 2v, would that help at all?

I would be looking to the battery cap for a poor connection. Try cleaning the groves on the battery cap and the groves on the mod for the cap with a cotton swab and alcohol. Does that screw adjustment on the battery cap come apart? Clean it's threads as well. Does the battery fit tight enough in the mod when the cap is installed?

Hi, I've been using my DNA100C every day for about 9 months now, but lately, in the last month or 2 I've been getting this issue where the battery charge indicator isn't even down halfway and starts getting weak puffs and says "batt down." I figured the batteries were dying, 2 Samsung 40T's, both do this on this mod. I don't have another 21700 mod to test. I just picked up 2 more Molicel P45B's and they do this too at around 60% charge despite being completely new. If I immediately change batteries it's fine until I hit that dreaded 60%. This wasn't an issue when I first got the mod, it might start saying batt down at 5% or 10% charge at first, but it's starting to do this sooner and sooner despite having plenty of charge left. What could be causing this? The mod is a ViciousAnt Primo. Thanks

Hooked it up to Escribe and while the autolock feature was still set to the default 240 minutes, upon disabling it and uploading the new settings, the problem has gone away. I'll probably just leave it off for now. Thanks for the helpful suggestions, Wayneo !

That would be the Pro with the LiPo. It sounds like you've changed the screen 'lock time'. If you compare your two mods in escribe -> safety -> 'lock time' they should be different and you can match your Hadron to the other. Then upload settings to mod. Please reply either way with your findings.

Hadron 250 plus (lipo battery version). Need to press the fire button 5 times to power it up. Both of my DNA devices will automatically power down after a period of inactivity, but the Hadron does it within a few (less than 5) minutes, instead of the original much longer delay. Regular use for a little over a year and the new behavior only started about two weeks ago. Never charged the cell in the unit, alternated between 2 cells that were recharged in an external charger.

What do you mean 'powering off'. What do you have to do to start vaping again? And, which model Hadron?

My Hadron 250 has begun powering down after just a few minutes of inactivity, rather than for the initial period of time.

I recently upgraded to a DNA 250 Color device and I'm loving it so far! However, I want to make sure I'm taking the best possible care of my batteries to ensure longevity and safety. I've read conflicting information online about the best practices for battery management, especially when it comes to charging and discharging levels. Some sources recommend fully charging the batteries before use, while others suggest avoiding complete discharge cycles. So, I wanted to reach out to the community here and see what everyone's experiences and recommendations are when it comes to battery management on the DNA 250 Color. How do you handle charging your batteries? Do you have any specific settings or practices that you swear by to optimize battery life and safety? Looking forward to hearing your insights and learning from your experiences! Thanks.